From Windhoek to Joburg, back to Windhoek. Repeat.

Chasing gorgeous sundowners has become the norm in Windhoek, Namibia.

After traveling for a while, you become accustomed to flights - well, mostly have no other choice but to become accustomed. Visiting home becomes a 30+ hour journey (and occasionally 48+ hours with delays), a flight which I recognize I am fortunate enough to take once or twice per year. 

While the statement “I love flying” may be an overstatement, I’ve become comfortable and content on an airplane. I still get filled with excitement and anticipation as I step out of the car when my dropped off at an international terminal. There is something to be said about the anticipation of journeying off to somewhere new, leaving familiarity behind and being whisked away to somewhere anywhere but ‘here’. Each change of scenery is an adventure on its own, even when migrating short distances between one city and the next. 

I’m not sure when I became addicted to the magic of being transported from one part of the world to another, but I will say that I’ve consistently worked towards living a lifestyle that involves having a career with geographic fluidity. Only a few months ago did I come to the realization that since I was 18, I haven't lived in the same city for more than 2 years - including the 6-months I spent studying at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Thailand and backpacking through most of Southeast Asia on the weekends.

Although 5 years ago, or even 2 years ago I would have never imagined myself living and working in Windhoek, Namibia, I can’t say I’ve veered too far from my overall goal. My main takeaway from studying abroad in Bangkok back in 2007, was that I would much rather work and live in different countries, versus traveling the world through the lens of a tourist. Rather, I told myself, I would find a way to work and live in different countries long enough to experience the day-to-day life through the eyes of a local.

And so, the journey continues.

German architecture on the morning walk to the Ministry of Home Affairs and Immigration (MHAI). 

When my one-year position as an Adviser for the South African Supplier Development Council came to an end this past August, I was determined to find another job somewhere in South Africa or a nearby country. After one year, I accepted that I was not ready to walk away from Jozi and all its complexed beauty. I stumbled across an opportunity with a South African-based management consulting firm through a friend of mine (further evidence that your networks are key!) and learned they were hiring consultants for an upcoming project with the Ministry of Home Affairs and Immigration in Windhoek, Namibia. Until my first day at work the Ministry, I had never set foot in the country. About two-and-a-half-years ago, I spent a few hours in the Windhoek Hosea Kutako International Airport whilst in transit from Cape Town to Accra (and met a new friend in the process), but that was the extent of my Windhoek experience.

So, what am I doing here in Windhoek? To save the both of us time and confusion, I'll point you to this poster that is one of the many signage initiatives we've undertaken at the Ministry. I appreciate this poster because it succinctly gives you an overall idea of the Project's aim. Whenever someone enquires about the work I'm doing here, I send them this photo (see above). You can also read about the project in an article published by The Namibian back in May 2014.

To answer other questions received from friends and family, the 'Turnaround Project' is 18 months and began in June 2014. One perk of is that it gives me the opportunity to continue traveling, without completely leaving Johannesburg. Since we're a Johannesburg-based consulting firm, I fly back to Joburg every other weekend. To be honest, it's kind of a sweet deal. I can live and work in a change of scenery, while spending every other weekend in Joburg - not bad, hey? And of course, there's gained experience and skill, but that's a given.

Yes, Hello Hilton Hotel #Selfie.

The only real unnerving change, is that I don't have an apartment in Joburg anymore. Unlike my fellow colleagues, I have no family in Joburg. So yes, I am now a nomad to the fullest extent. For the first month I resided at the Hilton Hotel Windhoek, but then moved into a fully-furnished flat (or apartment). Before I left Joburg, I gave away most of my extra clothes and shoes. Since the flat I've lived in for the past year was fully furnished, the only items I own at the moment fit into the several suitcases I have, plus my car which I left at my friends house. Other than that, I own no furniture or anything of real value. And to be honest - I love it... no dressers, dining room tables, televisions or mattresses to move or sell! There's nothing holding me back should I choose to up and leave. I can simply pack my belongings and vamoose. Ah, the freedom!

So cheers to 2015. Cheers to more writing, reflecting, appreciating, and simply striving for happiness. I keep it simple. 

Soaking up the sun poolside at the Hilton on a Sunday afternoon.

View from the Hilton, uke and all. 

Jozi Love Affair

Views of the Johannesburg skyline from the Living Room in the Maboneng Precinct, CBD

Guess I should go pack my bags now.

Sleepless, anxious nights leading into exhausting, draining days. Emotionally overwhelmed.

Five flights over the next five weeks, passing through four places I've once called home.

An ending that came too soon, while unknown beginnings await. Unexpectedly saddened by the thought of walking away from a closing chapter, while piqued by the new chapter that's about to unfold.

For the lack of a better word, the overused phrase comes to mind: Bittersweet.

Guess I really should go pack my bags now.

----

If Jozi was a stage, I guess you could say I left my heart on the dance floor. And you thought I was going to write an entry about a love affair with a boy? Oh no no no. Seriously, who do you think I am? I'm referring to a love affair with Jozi. I can honestly say I didn't anticipate enjoying my stay here over the past year as much as I have. My lack of blogging entries speaks to the lack of spare time I've had to write (because I've been having too much fun!) So much has happened since my last entry in February. I have tons of catching up to do.

My last day at work is this Friday, August 22nd. I'm headed to Kruger National Park for one last hurrah with a group of friends, and then I fly directly to Hawaii on Monday. And by directly I'm referring to a 36 hour flight with three layovers in London, San Francisco, and Los Angeles before finally reaching Honolulu for my Daddy's wedding on August 31st. I expect to catch up on my blogging during that 'forever and a day' span of time spent on a plane... or four planes actually.

For now, I'm procrastinating on my packing. In the meantime, follow me on social media because I'm too lazy to organize and upload photos - IG: shalanemaile and Twitter @ShalalaMaile. 

I am not a New Yorker.

I am not a New Yorker. But…

Thank you for pushing me, for making me realize my full potential.

The two years I lived in New York as a graduate student were undoubtedly the most difficult, yet most accomplished years of my life thus far. In those two years I earned my MPA, held 2 unpaid internships in the international development sector, volunteered in refugee resettlement, waited tables at an Italian-Japanese restaurant in Tribeca, held a Board position for a student org, spent 4 months abroad in three African countries and still found time to build life-long friendships with some of the most inspiring people I’ve ever met. There were nights where I came home at 4am after a 16 hour day of nonstop intellectual, physical and emotional stimulation where I lied in my bed absolutely exhausted. Yet, I found a smirk on my face – a gesture of overwhelming content of the day’s productivity. In some sick way, getting up in the morning with a sore body from a normal day’s routine was some sort of accomplishment, the same feeling you get when your body is sore the day after an extensive session at the gym. Like I’ve told many, in the last two years I feel like I've physically and mentally aged 10.

I respect the New York hustle, the passion and the drive that attracts like-minded individuals from all over the world in the spirit that “anything is possible”. Every person you meet has an individually unique story about what passion brought them to New York with nothing but “a dollar and a dream”.

Not too far long after I arrived in Johannesburg did I notice the strong impact New York had on me. I’m more aggressive, honest and have adopted a GSD [Get Shit Done] attitude. I recognize efficiency as the key to success and am passionate about every project I invest a minute of my time into. I no longer have a tolerance for bullshit, am more direct and instantly see through the [San Francisco] tendency to sugar coat the truth. I’m realistic versus idealistic. While I’ve always been my biggest critic, criticism no longer hurts and I’m not ashamed to recognize my flaws. Each person met is an extended ‘network’ and I’m always trying to make a connection if it helps the society at large. I’m an extroverted introvert, less terrified to speak in front of crowds and can confidently navigate any one-on-one conversation, no matter the individual.

So again, I am not a New Yorker. But I thank my Empire State of Mind for adding a much-needed layer of dimension to my Hawaiian-style inner core, driven by my Bay Area sense of humor and light-hearted kindness.

Despite how much I love New York, I’m not 100% positive I will be returning after my stint here in South Africa. While working in the name of international development, it doesn’t make sense to work so far removed from the beneficiaries of your effort. Will I feel as fulfilled about the impact I’m having sitting behind a computer screen thousands of miles away from the community where I’m trying to ‘make a difference’? Probably not. Okay, no – definitely not. As with any human interaction, I value the dimension of a face-to-face conversation. Call it basic principles of relationship building, but even as much as our world is connected by technology, necessary elements of a relationship such as trust, cannot be gauged via a Skype call or Google Hangout. 

Much like a travel bug, I thought the willingness to relocate anywhere for my next professional stint was a virus that would leave my system with enough nourishment. However, a year after grad school and the ‘career’ travel bug is still invading my soul – and I can’t shake it. I have a mental list of locations where I’d like to live and work for 1-2 years. Bali, Nairobi and France top the list, unless I got a Fellowship with the World Economic Forum, then I’d drop everything and go to Geneva in a heartbeat. I’d say, “A girl can dream, can’t she?” but these aren’t dreams – the question is, “in what chapter of my life will they occur?” Sorry if I sound aggressive, but you can blame the New Yorker in me – she knows how to get what she wants. #SorryNotSorry

Hold on, my next blog post is coming "just now"

Ignoring the rain at the SA vs Pakistan cricket game at Wanderers Stadium

It's taken much longer than expected to publish this post, probably because I've fallen into the trap of telling myself I'll get to it "just now".

3 Americans at the SA versus NZ rugby match

 In Joburg the phrase "just now" has absolutely no meaning. When speaking on the phone with someone who says they will be there to pick you up "just now" could mean they're around the corner or they've just left the house and will be there in an hour. Rather, "just now" is South African slang for sometime soon, which is only differentiated by its more urgent sister phrase, "now now". Understanding "just now" versus "now now" is only done so by experience, when once or twice you're promised something will be done "just now", only to check hours later and realizing your expectations have not been met. 

As I've mentioned before, my patience in South Africa is tested every day. I often times find myself frustrated with over-complicated processes, promises that are made but never kept, or hitting a brick wall when  you hear the oh-so-classic response that well, "this is just the way things are done in South Africa". Great - how do I work with that?! I've learned to plan ahead and budget for extra time with the expectation that more than likely, something will go awry. For me, it was a my temporary residence visa that took weeks longer than anticipated to be returned from the US Embassy. Without my passport I was quite limited, although I was at huge fault for not making a certified copy before it was handed off to USAID who handled my visa application. I'm lucky I was able to rent an apartment with a non-certified copy of my passport, but I was unable to open a local bank account or rent a car.

Bafana Bafana win over Spain - 1 to 0

Originally I had no intention of renting or purchasing a car during my time here in Joburg, but found it to be incredibly difficult. I realized quickly that this isn't New York and public transportation is limited. However, after many headaches and thanks to a reliable friend I've finally got my car sorted! I mean, don't ask me what type of used car I bought because you won't be impressed, but its a car nonetheless. Needless to say, life is much easier when you're mobile. If anyone knows me at all, they know my freedom and independence are important for my happiness, so compromising the two was starting to drive me slowly insane. Yes, purchasing a car isn't an expense I anticipated and yes, petrol is expensive (it costs about $80 to fill up my tank), but is it worth it? HELL YES.

For those who ask me on a regular basis, I'm settling into Joburg life absolutely fine, and my lack of time to blog is proof. In the last few weeks I've become well acquainted to the world of South African sports. I went to a Bafana Bafana South Africa versus Spain soccer game and then tried to get a better understanding of cricket as South Africa played against Pakistan - and South Africa won both games! However, even after watching a game of cricket at Wanderers stadium and multiple games on tv (my flatmate can watch cricket for days...), I have to admit that I still don't fully understand how to play the game...

Jumping on rocks & swimming kind of getaway at Drakensburg

About a month ago I spent the weekend away in Drakensburg, which is about a five hours drive outside of Joburg - and the scenery was absolutely stunning. It was my first weekend spent outside of the city and was a change of scenery definitely needed. The photo above was taken at a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Drakensburg. We spent the weekend hiking, jumping off rocks and swimming in freezing cold rivers. Although river swimming is quite different from the beaches I'm accustomed to, the water was refreshing beyond belief.

Hanging out with this cutie at the Lion Park

On another note, Thanksgiving recently came and left. On this annual day of commercialized self-reflection, I acknowledge the fact that I have more to be thankful for than these little fingers are able to type! I am simply thankful that I have the strength, support and open heart to experience every second of this wonderful adventure called life. I'm also thankful to the generosity, kindness and inclusiveness that surrounds me each day, always surprised and humbled by the openness I receive from people who have trouble pronouncing my name for the first time. 

This Thanksgiving I made a haupia chocolate pie. Yes, if I can't travel home for some traditional desert than I must recreate it here. Soon everyone will fall in love with haupia and then I'll have more of a reason to make the coconut pudding goodness on a regular basis. I vow to get my next post up more quickly. In fact, I'll get to it just now...

Ok fine, I'm coming just now.

Good Morning Jozi - Howzit?

Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City Mall

I intended to have at least one post up by my one week Jozi anniversary, but I have been procrastinating – there is much to update on! Where to begin…

Perceptions. 

I can tell you what Johannesburg is not, much to warnings from friends and peers. Surprise surprise, but no lions and elephants do not roam free in Johannesburg, no everyone doesn't live in a hut and no I haven't been mugged yet. South Africa, which is a country, for that matter is not synonymous to Africa, which is a continent. Warning me to be careful of civil unrest in Northern Africa is like asking my family in San Francisco if they are safe because of riots that broke out in Northern Alaska.  

http://www.theatlanticwire.com/global/2013/08/confusing-country-continent-how-we-talk-about-africa/68870/

"Africa has an image problem. Or, put another way, the West has a perception problem."

While I agree with this statement 101 percent, I will also argue the problem of perception is a two-way street. Believe it or not, the American perception of Joburg is as equally skewed as how South Africans perceive America. Joburg is most reputable for its high levels of crime, yet if I were to ask a South African if they’d ever step foot in Harlem alone they respond with a face of horror and shake their head “Oh, NO”. Yes Harlemites, the neighborhood that has been home to me for the past two years is considered dangerous by international standards. So you see, the media’s ability to embed stereotypes and reinforce fears resulting in a reluctance to embrace a new community is a two-way street. At the end of the day, our perception problem hurts us because we miss an opportunity to view the world with a new lens. We miss an opportunity for personal growth or fulfilment of a void we never knew was there.

A field of Birds of Paradise on my way to work everyday

Rather, Johannesburg looks like this – with places like Sandton City, Africa's most prestigious shopping mall and honestly the most luxurious and extravagant collection of high-end stores I've ever walked through. I mean, there’s a Top Shop here, which to my knowledge there is only one store in all of the United States located in Soho, New York. I too kicked myself after bringing a year's worth of Body Shop facial products only to stumble across numerous stores with the same products at half the price! I too am guilty of assuming that South Africa couldn't possible have American stores that I've taken for granted.

However, compare establishments like Sandton City to township communities and you will begin to understand the cusp of inequalities everyone describes in South Africa. South Africa I was told, is a place of “haves and have nots”. With the middle class practically non-existent, it becomes easier to understand why Jozi is also laden with a stark reputation for high crime rates. In Jozi, you’re either fighting to keep what you have or fighting to obtain what you don’t have – hence the “haves and have nots”.

Balcony view in Sandton

A day after I touched down at OR Tambo International Airport, I consider myself lucky to have had the opportunity to visit the Alexandra township, or referred to as "Alex" by locals, for a Tedx conference. Considering how close in proximity Alex is to Sandton, its difficult to imagine how many worlds apart the two are with regards to standards of living. The two communities are only about 6 km apart, with Sandton dubbed "Africa's richest square mile" and Alex referred to as one of the poorest former black townships. 

As we drove into Alex, sights seen through the window were not unlike anything I haven't ever seen before – a dusty, densely populated community comprised of infinite rows of tiny shacks with tin roofs. While there is an evident sense of community it's not the ideal place for a stroll after sundown or even alone as a female for that matter. What struck me most were evident signs of wealth, despite the overall impoverishment of the township. On the street shining luxury cars dotted the main road - Mercedes, Lexus you name it. Necks were dressed in sparking ‘bling’ and flashy clothes. Again, it’s the irony of inequalities.

TEDxAlexandra brought together nonprofits and organizations with a proven track record of uplifting communities such as Alexandra through innovation, collaboration and partnerships. But for me the highlight of the event wasn’t a co-founder or CEO of successful organization, but an 18 year-old female African Leadership Academy student named Priscilla. As an avid young reader who immersed herself in American and European novels, she wanted to address the lack of African literature by creating writing her own series of children's books. Her project aims to banish stereotypes Africans adopt about other African countries at a young age by extracting and sharing positive narratives about the African continent. You can read about her project here because she can explain it more eloquently than I ever could.

Impromptu dancing during the braai following the Tedx event

Well two weeks have flown by and it feels as if I've been in Joburg for much longer. I'm still in the process of locking down an apartment for an October 1st move in date and will purchase a used car once my work visa comes back. Once I get those two sorted - my apartment and my car - I'll feel much more 'settled'. However, I'll update more about work etc. later... that could take a while!