Good Morning Jozi - Howzit?

Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City Mall

I intended to have at least one post up by my one week Jozi anniversary, but I have been procrastinating – there is much to update on! Where to begin…

Perceptions. 

I can tell you what Johannesburg is not, much to warnings from friends and peers. Surprise surprise, but no lions and elephants do not roam free in Johannesburg, no everyone doesn't live in a hut and no I haven't been mugged yet. South Africa, which is a country, for that matter is not synonymous to Africa, which is a continent. Warning me to be careful of civil unrest in Northern Africa is like asking my family in San Francisco if they are safe because of riots that broke out in Northern Alaska.  

http://www.theatlanticwire.com/global/2013/08/confusing-country-continent-how-we-talk-about-africa/68870/

"Africa has an image problem. Or, put another way, the West has a perception problem."

While I agree with this statement 101 percent, I will also argue the problem of perception is a two-way street. Believe it or not, the American perception of Joburg is as equally skewed as how South Africans perceive America. Joburg is most reputable for its high levels of crime, yet if I were to ask a South African if they’d ever step foot in Harlem alone they respond with a face of horror and shake their head “Oh, NO”. Yes Harlemites, the neighborhood that has been home to me for the past two years is considered dangerous by international standards. So you see, the media’s ability to embed stereotypes and reinforce fears resulting in a reluctance to embrace a new community is a two-way street. At the end of the day, our perception problem hurts us because we miss an opportunity to view the world with a new lens. We miss an opportunity for personal growth or fulfilment of a void we never knew was there.

A field of Birds of Paradise on my way to work everyday

Rather, Johannesburg looks like this – with places like Sandton City, Africa's most prestigious shopping mall and honestly the most luxurious and extravagant collection of high-end stores I've ever walked through. I mean, there’s a Top Shop here, which to my knowledge there is only one store in all of the United States located in Soho, New York. I too kicked myself after bringing a year's worth of Body Shop facial products only to stumble across numerous stores with the same products at half the price! I too am guilty of assuming that South Africa couldn't possible have American stores that I've taken for granted.

However, compare establishments like Sandton City to township communities and you will begin to understand the cusp of inequalities everyone describes in South Africa. South Africa I was told, is a place of “haves and have nots”. With the middle class practically non-existent, it becomes easier to understand why Jozi is also laden with a stark reputation for high crime rates. In Jozi, you’re either fighting to keep what you have or fighting to obtain what you don’t have – hence the “haves and have nots”.

Balcony view in Sandton

A day after I touched down at OR Tambo International Airport, I consider myself lucky to have had the opportunity to visit the Alexandra township, or referred to as "Alex" by locals, for a Tedx conference. Considering how close in proximity Alex is to Sandton, its difficult to imagine how many worlds apart the two are with regards to standards of living. The two communities are only about 6 km apart, with Sandton dubbed "Africa's richest square mile" and Alex referred to as one of the poorest former black townships. 

As we drove into Alex, sights seen through the window were not unlike anything I haven't ever seen before – a dusty, densely populated community comprised of infinite rows of tiny shacks with tin roofs. While there is an evident sense of community it's not the ideal place for a stroll after sundown or even alone as a female for that matter. What struck me most were evident signs of wealth, despite the overall impoverishment of the township. On the street shining luxury cars dotted the main road - Mercedes, Lexus you name it. Necks were dressed in sparking ‘bling’ and flashy clothes. Again, it’s the irony of inequalities.

TEDxAlexandra brought together nonprofits and organizations with a proven track record of uplifting communities such as Alexandra through innovation, collaboration and partnerships. But for me the highlight of the event wasn’t a co-founder or CEO of successful organization, but an 18 year-old female African Leadership Academy student named Priscilla. As an avid young reader who immersed herself in American and European novels, she wanted to address the lack of African literature by creating writing her own series of children's books. Her project aims to banish stereotypes Africans adopt about other African countries at a young age by extracting and sharing positive narratives about the African continent. You can read about her project here because she can explain it more eloquently than I ever could.

Impromptu dancing during the braai following the Tedx event

Well two weeks have flown by and it feels as if I've been in Joburg for much longer. I'm still in the process of locking down an apartment for an October 1st move in date and will purchase a used car once my work visa comes back. Once I get those two sorted - my apartment and my car - I'll feel much more 'settled'. However, I'll update more about work etc. later... that could take a while!

And Thats a Wrap - The NYU Capstone Experience

Jules - Foundation Rwanda's Founder and Executive Director - best describes our productive adventure in her generous FB status post shortly after returning back to New York:

Dear NYU Capstone Foundation Rwanda Team: You interviewed 25 FR mothers, 12 FR students, 4 FR NGO partners & countless possible partners, you traveled to places in Rwanda most have yet to go, you barely slept, you never complained, you advocated for jobs, health, counseling, vocational training and higher education. Together we laughed and we cried. Sam, Sara and I will forever be grateful for this experience and for each one of you. With gratitude. Laura, Shalane, Alyson, Eras and Priscilla. See you all in NYC! x

Its unbelievable the Team has only been here for less than 2 weeks, because considering how much work we’ve accomplished it feels like we’ve been here for over a month. In 13 days (which by the way we worked through 13 days straight with no day off), between our team of five we probably conducted almost 50 interviews, partially due to unexpected interviews set up with potential partners we gained knowledge of while on the ground. 

Along the way we met some of the most inspiring women and were lucky enough to experience both modern and rural living - home-cooked local Rwanda meals from the villages of Kibuye to home-cooked meals in one of the most luxurious houses I never imagined I'd see in the business district of Kigali.

A friend of mine said when I returned from Rwanda she felt there was something different about me. She said she felt as if I glowing with new-found energy, and she's exactly right. There was a point in time that we were heading back to Kigali from our trip to Kibuye, riding in the back of a Toyota 4-wheel drive and bouncing around until we were carsick from the bumpy roads, and having a conversation about where we saw ourselves after graduation. Without a doubt the Capstone experience in Rwanda reaffirmed that working "in the field" is where I'm most alive and where I belong. I want place all my professional energy engaging with communities from cultures most different from me, not behind a desk with no human interaction. So thank you Capstone, but most importantly thank you Foundation Rwanda.

Local Rwandan Cuisine

Local food is yummy! Although they eat various types of red meats here, its quite easy to avoid them. If you're not the biggest red meat fan (like myself), you'll probably end up eating mostly starches, which are more than likely fried. Although everything is not as heavily fried or saturated in palm oil as Ghanian local food, the Rwandan diet is fairly starch-heavy. At a local restaurant you will find an array of starches - rice, crepes, cassava, sweet potatoes, chips (as in fried potatoes) and matooke (starchy bananas).

Now, don't get me wrong - I'm not a complainer, but one aspect of Rwanda for which I am greatly thankful is their coffee! Compared to the other two African countries I've visited - Ghana and South Africa - where Nescafe or instant coffee was staple, having freshly brewed coffee is pleasant. Even when studying abroad in Thailand in 2007 instant coffee was the norm, so its nice to wake up to real coffee for a traveling change. The fresh milk served alongside the coffee is always warmed, which I also appreciate! It makes total sense... why put cold milk into your steaming hot coffee? Of course you'd prefer warmed milk in your hot beverage!

Anyways, here's some photos of Rwanda's delicious local food-

The first local meal we ate in Kigali. It was SO yummy. Cassava, dirty rice, green beans, sweet potatoes, garbanzo beans and potatoes.

A Ugandan dish at the Bethanie Hotel in Kibuye near alongside Lake Kivu. Apparently its usually eaten as a hearty morning breakfast. I forget what it was called, it it was basically a stewed mix of veggies, chicken, beans, rice and pasta. Hearty indeed.

Driving around Rwanda banana trees are everywhere. Apparently, there are four types of bananas grown here: the small sweet ones (good for dessert), matooke (more starchy, less sweet and typically boiled, plantain (ideal for frying), and then the variety we are accustomed to eating in the US. Prior to arriving in Rwanda we heard that they make banana beer and were excited to try the local beverage. What we found instead was more of a banana wine, with an alcohol content of 14%. The one below was found at the local supermarket for 1500 RWF, or about USD $2.50. If you've ever tasted palm wine before, the banana wine tastes somewhat similar.

"Akarusho" or banana wine. Made of fermented banana juice and sorghum. It tasted similar to palm wine.

Humbled to enjoy a homemade meal in a village in the Rutsiro district near Kivu Lake.

A homemade Rwandan meal at the home of an FR mother. Peas and carrots,  boiled cassava, squash, matooke stew,  rice and pineapples.

It isn't uncommon for families to ferment bananas in their home and make their own banana wine! We visited two different FR mothers who make the local drink. One mother gave us a tour of her house and showed us the room where she ferments the bananas, while this mother in Kibuye served a generous pitcher for us guests with our meal. 

Especially in the rural villages of Kibuye where most families' livelihood and income rely on agriculture cultivation, bananas is one of the priority crops. Not only is it one of the main staples, but also serves as a food security crop with a year round harvest. During our interviews we were shocked to hear from one beneficiary about a dangerous and epidemic disease that a caused 100% of banana yield losses. After doing some research we learned the disease, banana xanthomonas was recognized as a national threat, spreading to Rwanda and other countries in Eastern Africa after emerging from Uganda. Apparently the Rwandan government is trying to solve the issue by replacing farmers' diseased banana trees with new banana trees.

Homemade banana wine in Kibuye.

While I am least adventurous with red meat, I never say no to fish. Jules treated us to talapias at her hotel. The meal reminded me of Duncan's in Accra, except there was no accompanying banku (I prefer rice anyways. 

Delicious talapia fish at the Chez Landau. SO fresh and yummy. It was accompanied with spinach, pees and carrots and rice. Definitely one of my favorite meals in Rwanda.

Our Capstone Team was blessed to be paired with such an amazing client. I am most humbled to have shared homemade meals with locals on several occasions. Foundation Rwanda has made a strong impression on the local community here in Rwanda, making friendships with kind and generous people. Learning and laughing from inspiring and successful business women like Joy of Gahaya Links over a glass of wine or watching Sam's wedding videos in his living room with his wife as if we were actually present on that memorable day, are some of the best memories I'll walk away with from this trip. 

Another homemade meal - Chicken, fish, rice and tomato sauce, peas,  potatoes, crepe and cucumber and onion salad.

Dirty rice, homemade peanut sauce, chapatti, potatoes, boiled sweet potatoes, beans  and homemade chili salsa.

On the Eastern Shore of Lake Kivu

To speak humbly, every day in this trip has been better than yesterday. I admire our team so much – I truly am lucky to have such as KICK ASS team. Since we’ve arrived on Tuesday, January 8 we’ve been working nonstop conducting research on partner organizations, refining our strategic interviews and identifying goals for each meeting, conducting interviews, synthesizing answers, and trying to make sense of it all. During our ‘free time’, which is practically nonexistent, we are planning ahead for the next day’s meetings. After dinner we typically fit in an hour or so more of work, head to bed around 11pm or midnight and are back up at it again at 7am. (This morning I woke up at 5am and watched the sunrise over Lake Kivu, which to be honest I am not going to complain about).

Since I have a relatively faint heart I’ve emotionally prepared for this Rwanda trip knowing that I will encounter the sensitive topic of genocidal rape by reading tons of books, watching documentaries and setting Google Alerts following the Rwandan genocide in the media. One of the books I read, Left to Tell by Immaculee Ilibagiza is a memoir by a genocide survivor who worked for the UN thereafter and still lives in New York. She tells the miraculous story of strength, faith, and survival. She describes how God and a local Hutu pastor hid her and seven other women in a cramped bathroom of his home the size of a closet. They spent 91 days in this closet praying each day they wouldn’t be found until they eventually fled and found a French refuge camp. When she left the bathroom hiding spot she faced the loss of numerous family members and friends, including her parents. I highly recommend this book to anyone interested in reading a personal account of someone who survived the Rwandan genocide. Anyways, point is that the book took place in Immaculee's hometown of Kibuye, so I was extremely intrigued and humbled to get the chance to visit this part of Rwanda where 90 percent of the Tutsi population was murdered during the genocide of 1994. After reading reading Immaculee's story and description of her home town, its enticing to be able to put a 'face to a name', so to speak.

Overlooking Lake Kivu from the Moriah Hotel

Lake Kivu is nestled between the borders of the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Rwanda, with many memories from the genocide lingering within. Although today Rwanda has somewhat found peace after its civil war, there are still acts of violence continuing on in Goma, on the north side of Lake Kivu just across the Congo border. The Western city of Kibuye is one of the most rural, but has an amazing story of survival to tell. Although about 90 percent of the town's Tutsi population was massacred during the civil war, the women have since emerged triumphant through the formation of a community support network.

Through speaking with many of the women, we found the concept of 'active listening' keeping many of these women alive and sane. 'Active listening' can be more or less described as community counseling. One women gets receives training in 'active listening' and becomes a mobile community counselor, inviting other women to call upon her when in need, and willing to travel many kilometers just to visit a women in her community who desperately needs someone to actively listen. I should mention that due to Rwanda's thousand hills and hilly landscape, outlying towns such as Kibuye and Cyangugu are isolated from the reach of servicing nonprofits. One of Foundation Rwanda's local partners, AVEGA West, is the nearest servicing nonprofit to these women, yet it would take nearly a 2 hour walk to reach the nonprofits compound for a counseling session. Thus in my opinion it is these women's evident bond and strength in numbers that has allowed them to survive and remain positive. 

Women survivors of Rwanda's genocidal past find laughter, tears of joy and self-confidence in lipstick.

These women were vibrant and full of life. They had a sense of humor and laughed with us. They cooked and shared with us a delicious local meal and strong batch of home brewed banana wine. Their smiles were bright and it brought me indescribable joy to laugh with them until they cried. They shared with us their hopes and dreams for themselves and their children. Seeing their strength today, you would never have known their traumatic past, but I am thankful, humbled, and inspired by the individual stories they shared with us. If they can live to have hope, anyone can. I only hope our paths will cross again.

Instead of a 2.5 hour drive back through the hilly terrain, we opted for a boat ride across Lake Kivu and back to our hotel.

School Visits and Interviews

Foundation Rwanda (FR) currently sponsors 827 students' education through the completion of secondary school, equivalent to graduating high school in the US education system. Since FR's primary initiative is to ensure all 827 current beneficiaries complete secondary school, it is most beneficial for our research to interview a wide range of FR's student beneficiaries. In Rwanda age does not determine what class level a student is placed, especially after the genocide. So although almost all of FR's beneficiaries are between 17 and 18, we interviewed students enrolled in class levels from Senior 3 (Equivalent to ninth grade in the US) to students who have already completed Senior 6 (equivalent to the high school graduation in the US).

So far, we've completed 10 interviews from student beneficiaries attending various types of schools - public day or boarding school, government-funded, government/Catholic partnership - located across multiple districts where FR provides support. Traveling to visit these different types of schools were interesting in itself, with each village, district, and type of school embodying a unique personality. 

Below is the classroom of a public day school in the rural areas of the Nyamata district. Pictured below is Sam of FR/Survivors Fund (SURF). As he was moving desks together preparing for our interview I snapped this photo of him.

Absolutely in love with this photo taken by my iPhone 5.

Of the 7 beneficiaries at this particular school we only had time to interview one female student in Senior 5, meaning she'll complete secondary school next year. This girl was utterly inspring and incredibly bright. Her dream was to become a journalist, yet expressed how poverty was a challenge to achieving her dream. Although she knew listening to the radio and watching tv each day was incredibly important to her aspiring career, her family could not afford a tv, nor batteries on a regular basis. Other challenges she expressed was having to walk about an hour-and-a-half one-way to and from school each day. By bicycle the trip takes about 30-40 minutes depending on how much strength she had that day. However her family only owns one bike which much be shared by all members, so she doesn't have access to it very often. Once she gets home and completes her chores, such as feeding the cow and washing clothes, she barely has any time to study. If she had enough money she'd request to switch to a boarding school, spend less time walking to school, and more time learning French and English. She also requested a solar lamp, as she did most of her studying at home with a a kerosene lamp, which is quite expensive. 

The Rwandan education system is quite complicated, as we are still trying to grasp our minds around exactly how it works. In certain aspects, the US education system is extremely different from that of Rwanda's, while on the other hand students express challenges that we too, experience here in America.  For example, the fact that all students must take a National Exam at the end of Senior 6, equivalent to our high school graduation is something that (thankfully) we dont do here in Amerca. The marks received from that one final exam determines a student's eligibility to a University, and thus nearly determines their entire future. In Rwanda it is universally expressed that if you don't go to a University, your income earning options are extremely limited. During interviews with students, when asked what they would do if they did not get into a University, students replied they would prefer to repeat Senior 6 and re-take the final year than be forced to find a job without a University education. 

Following the conclusion of our hour-long interview, fellow Capstone Team member Priscilla and I proceeded to pass out donated school supplies to the 7 FR beneficiaries at this school. As we were doing so one class of primary students were dismissed and flocked our car. Since Rwandans are so impressively orderly and disciplined, the students formed one line according to Sam's request. Priscilla went down the line and handed one pencil to each student.

Immediately after we handed one pencil to each of the 20 or so students in line, every single primary classroom was dismissed and we became flocked. Unfortunately we were unable to hand out a gift to each of the 100 or so students, so we had to leave. Word spread fast that we had handed out pencils because kids ran up and surrounded us asking us for a 'crayon' - Makes me want to go back and teach English. 

NYU Capstone Team - Foundation Rwanda

- visiting a beneficiary, Karongi district

I didn't anticipate continuing this blog after returning from Africa in August, but what do you know - its January and I get to come back! Thus, the content of my trip still fits within the original theme of this blog so I can continue my entries here without having to start a brand new blog. Yippee!

Background on the Capstone program at NYU Wagner - Our MPA program is unique because it involves a year-long Capstone project component - one of the main features of the Masters program that made it so attractive. Instead of writing a masters thesis (bo-ring!) second-year students form teams and are paired with a client. Together with the client the NYU Capstone Team works on a mutually agreed upon project scope, conducts research, and writes a report over the duration of the academic year. In short, we apply all the knowledge gained from the MPA program to a consulting project, working on a realistic issue for our client. Not only was this component of the Masters attractive because its more engaging than sitting behind a desk for hours on end, but requires personable networking skills, allows us to build our professional networks and looks awesome on a resume.

My AMAZING Capstone Team

So, back to my Capstone project - my client is Foundation Rwanda, a US-based nonprofit that aims to educate a very particular vulnerable population of children affected by the Rwanda genocide of 1994. Prior to Foundation Rwanda's existence, no existing government or NGO programs had been created to support their specific needs. It's a pivotal moment for Foundation Rwanda, in that its beneficiaries are now 17 - 18 years old and will be be graduating secondary school soon. Foundation Rwanda, who primarily funds their education, is trying to determine how best to continue supporting them. In efforts to provide 'holistic services' - health, pyschosocial, income generating activities - Foundation Rwanda has called upon us to conduct a needs assessment and cost analysis of the its current 820-some students and their mothers. This is what has brought me to Rwanda for about 2 and a half weeks. (Due to the confidential nature of the subject, for more information about Foundation Rwanda and the population they serve visit them at their website - http://www.foundationrwanda.org/)

First impressions? Rwanda is extremely clean. Compared to Ghana where plastic water sachets litter the ground, the Rwandan government has outlawed the usage of plastic. As a result litter is nearly nonexistent in Kigali. In fact, its quite evident Paul Kagame places a high value in the cleanliness of the country's capital. Driving through the streets of Kigali, the fact that government public works employees can be seen beautifying the sides of the roads and weeding sidewalks is indicative of the care and tedious effort invested in Rwanda's spotless appearance. With Rwanda's economy on the rise, Kagame made a great point in that you cannot expect an economy to flourish if its people can't master easy steps first such as keeping streets clean and orderly. I'd have to admit, in comparison to the only two other African countries I've visited - Ghana and South Africa - Rwanda appears extremely orderly and disciplined. 

playing in the 'princess-like' mosquito net,  Karongi district near Kivu lake

Ode to Humanity

In my first blog entry, 'First Things First' I began my journey acknowledging the friends and family who supported me and wished me luck. It only feels right to finish similarly - with thank you's. In efforts to give you an idea of all the people I'm thankful for meeting in the last two-and-a-half months, here's the 'quick and dirty version' (as my Professor Gershman would say) of the lovely people I've had the pleasure of meeting:

• Kingsley - a friend and life line who had my back the entire time in Ghana, always there when I needed him the most
• Nabil and Ganeemos - entertaining Azonto kings and commanders on the dance floor
• Major and Rhythm - a young rap duo aspiring to be the next big thing out of Ghana
• Banky - the Nigerian who bought me breakfast
• Porsha - the 10 year old vendor from whom I bought my morning egg sandwich from each day at the market outside my dorm at University of Ghana
• T.S. - the Econ masters student who always stopped by my room to say hello
• Gift - one of the many kind ladies who worked in the kitchen at U of G. She always complimented me on my eyeliner and asked me to show her how to do it
• Aunty Peggy - One of the most eclectic people I've ever met at 7am. Worked at the reception at U of G and greeted me every morning, and noticed when I didn't come home the night before. She never forgot to remind me to 'Like' her daughter on Facebook who was running for Miss Teen Ghana 2012 and to tell all my friends. Her name is Udel and find her on FB here: Udel for Miss Teen Ghana - FB or vote for her here: Miss Teen Ghana 2012.
• Davyd - met him on the bus from the Cape Town airport to Zebra Crossing. He invited me to meet his friends and I hung out with them on Long Street my first night in Cape Town.
• Carlos, Michael, and Steven at Zebra Crossing. Steven gave me a Taro card reading and I spent many late nights up with the gang drinking coffee and making pasta
• Erin - worked for Monkeybiz and shared our views on nonprofits
• Kate, Louise, Courtney and the Dutch girls - Volunteers with African Impact. Explored Long Street with them and they taught me about laws surrounding townships and education in South Africa.
• Stacy and Susan - the kind and hospitable staff at Zebra Crossing
• Tyron - A high school Capetonian I met on the Metrorail coming back from Simon's Town. He has a twin brother named Myron and wants to go to college and study art.
• Matt, Ashley, T.S. and the Ikhaya family - Nearly bent over backwards assisting me where they could. From saving me R180 by picking me up at Koopmanskloof winery to dropping me off at the train station at the end of my stay, they saved my life more than once.
• Becky and Francis - two entertaining ladies from the Virgin Islands I met on a wine tour. They were 5 days into their year-long trip traveling the world.
• Chantal - Graciously asked her friend to give me a lift to Koopmanskloof winery
• Coen and Michael - Enjoyed nightlife around Stellenbosch
• 2 German guys from Ikhaya (crap, forgot their names) - Dragged me out to Bohemia for a second time when they rainy weather had me down and I didn't feel like going out.
• Rydel - probably the most knowledgeable people about fair trade wine in South Africa. Definitely felt honored for him to take the time to speak with me and share his wisdom.
• Mario - Kindly toured me around Koopmanskloof and shared his vision and ideas for making the winery a better place for its workers.
• Linda and Kevin - owners of Robertson Backpackers, which felt more like a home than a hostel. From home cooked meals to an 'honesty bar' to giving me an awesome rate on a single room when the dorms were full, they made this place feel like home when the weather was crap.
• Eric and Michael - local Capetonians who shared their 'hubbly bubbly' and bought me a few Savannas
• Gerrit, Lenka, and ALG Boerdery family - hosted me for two nights in their guesthouse on the Citrusdal farm. From driving 2 hours to collect me from Cape Town, arranging a 2-night guesthouse in town, giving me a tour of their lovely citrus estate, and finally arranging me a ride back from Citrusdal to Cape Town - their hospitality was more than I could have ever expected. 
• Edwina, Nyasha, Mandi, Howard and the Green Elephant staff - seriously, the staff that never sleeps. With the reception running 24/7 I'm not sure how they manage to be so helpful, entertaining, and friendly each day.
• Emily, Jenna, Marilyn, Marlon, 'Rasta guy' and the rest of the Green Elephant family - staying at the Green Elephant felt like home and was welcoming from day 1. I enjoyed my stay here so much that I left to Citrusdal for 2 nights and came right back to the 'Green Elle'.
• Nee - the boxing matchmaker I met at the Namibia airport and invited me to meet some of Ghana's most well-known professional boxers.
• Chen, Jill, Hannah, Jenny and the FTUSA family - provided professional guidance from San Francisco. They provided me with contacts in South Africa which laid out my itinerary. I knew they were never more than a Skype call or email away.

As you can see although for most of my trip I traveled 'alone' I wasn't really alone. I met so many amazing people during my trip and considering I wrote this all from memory, each person made an effect on me in some shape or form. Funny enough, as I step further outside of my comfort zone the more grounded I become. It's because I'm reminded of the human qualities that connect us all... no matter who you are, where you are, where you came from, or where you are going we are all the same, connected by the human spirit that runs through all of us.

One Love.