I am not a New Yorker.

I am not a New Yorker. But…

Thank you for pushing me, for making me realize my full potential.

The two years I lived in New York as a graduate student were undoubtedly the most difficult, yet most accomplished years of my life thus far. In those two years I earned my MPA, held 2 unpaid internships in the international development sector, volunteered in refugee resettlement, waited tables at an Italian-Japanese restaurant in Tribeca, held a Board position for a student org, spent 4 months abroad in three African countries and still found time to build life-long friendships with some of the most inspiring people I’ve ever met. There were nights where I came home at 4am after a 16 hour day of nonstop intellectual, physical and emotional stimulation where I lied in my bed absolutely exhausted. Yet, I found a smirk on my face – a gesture of overwhelming content of the day’s productivity. In some sick way, getting up in the morning with a sore body from a normal day’s routine was some sort of accomplishment, the same feeling you get when your body is sore the day after an extensive session at the gym. Like I’ve told many, in the last two years I feel like I've physically and mentally aged 10.

I respect the New York hustle, the passion and the drive that attracts like-minded individuals from all over the world in the spirit that “anything is possible”. Every person you meet has an individually unique story about what passion brought them to New York with nothing but “a dollar and a dream”.

Not too far long after I arrived in Johannesburg did I notice the strong impact New York had on me. I’m more aggressive, honest and have adopted a GSD [Get Shit Done] attitude. I recognize efficiency as the key to success and am passionate about every project I invest a minute of my time into. I no longer have a tolerance for bullshit, am more direct and instantly see through the [San Francisco] tendency to sugar coat the truth. I’m realistic versus idealistic. While I’ve always been my biggest critic, criticism no longer hurts and I’m not ashamed to recognize my flaws. Each person met is an extended ‘network’ and I’m always trying to make a connection if it helps the society at large. I’m an extroverted introvert, less terrified to speak in front of crowds and can confidently navigate any one-on-one conversation, no matter the individual.

So again, I am not a New Yorker. But I thank my Empire State of Mind for adding a much-needed layer of dimension to my Hawaiian-style inner core, driven by my Bay Area sense of humor and light-hearted kindness.

Despite how much I love New York, I’m not 100% positive I will be returning after my stint here in South Africa. While working in the name of international development, it doesn’t make sense to work so far removed from the beneficiaries of your effort. Will I feel as fulfilled about the impact I’m having sitting behind a computer screen thousands of miles away from the community where I’m trying to ‘make a difference’? Probably not. Okay, no – definitely not. As with any human interaction, I value the dimension of a face-to-face conversation. Call it basic principles of relationship building, but even as much as our world is connected by technology, necessary elements of a relationship such as trust, cannot be gauged via a Skype call or Google Hangout. 

Much like a travel bug, I thought the willingness to relocate anywhere for my next professional stint was a virus that would leave my system with enough nourishment. However, a year after grad school and the ‘career’ travel bug is still invading my soul – and I can’t shake it. I have a mental list of locations where I’d like to live and work for 1-2 years. Bali, Nairobi and France top the list, unless I got a Fellowship with the World Economic Forum, then I’d drop everything and go to Geneva in a heartbeat. I’d say, “A girl can dream, can’t she?” but these aren’t dreams – the question is, “in what chapter of my life will they occur?” Sorry if I sound aggressive, but you can blame the New Yorker in me – she knows how to get what she wants. #SorryNotSorry

Merry Durban Christmas and Happy Ghanaian New Years!

And to YOU, a Happy New Year - 

I began 2013 with a heartfelt adventure in Rwanda I'll never forget and had the opportunity to commence 2014 with a Ghanaian wedding, all while making the move from New York to South Africa somewhere in between. A bit late, but here's to another year filled with uncertainty, risks and unexpected turns, which I welcome with both arms knowing I've got the support of an open mind and an open heart to soak it all in. 

Cheers,

Shalane

Durban shores

Pretending to watch cricket with Vukani and Gerry. 

At the bottom of the Valley of a Thousand Hills

Christmas this year was my first away from home and it was, bizarre. It was neither the best nor the worst, but I made the most of it. I escaped the Joburg city and headed to Durban, the southern coast of South Africa. I called Tekweni Backpackers my home for five days and spent them surrounded by a gang of locals and other expats from all over the world who similar to myself, also didn't go home for the holidays who for various reasons. For me, my reason was that the flight was too expensive and I had recently been in home in September. Instead of spending $2200 on a RT flight from Johannesburg to San Francisco, I opted for a Durban Christmas by the beach and a Ghanaian wedding to ring in the New Year.

I always forget how unique the backpacker environment is – usually a spot where locals and nomads like me float through and coexist, each with a unique story as the next. For example, on the second day at Tekweni Backpackers I jumped in a van with some local Durban kids, a Zulu, a German, an Irish a Colombian and myself, an American, and drove about 40 minutes outside of Durban to the Valley of a Thousand Hills. Had I ever heard of this place? No, but I was in for an adventure, as always. Well the decision was a great one because we spent all day visiting a local Zulu village in an area on the outskirts of Durban with so many green rolling hills that it reminded me of Rwanda, also framed for its thousand hills. We drank, hiked, swam in a dam and ate a home-cooked meal with the family of Wati, a Tekweni employee, in the Zulu Isuthumba village where he grew up. Although I had known all of them for at most 24 hours, there’s some unwritten rule at backpackers where you don’t judge each other, rather instantly build bridges across each other’s differences and connect through stories of cultural background, travel, passions and life in general. 

Isuthumba Village

Valley of a Thousand Hills from the top.

Sitting on a sand couch with Mandela

Durban beach promendade

I've entertained the idea of opening a backpackers before because to be honest, it looks like fun. At most places I've stayed, the owner always comes around and hangs out with the guests. When I was living in New York, my roommate at the time, Renee and I would occasionally rent out a room or the couch on AirBnB for extra cash. Through hosting I've meet some of the most interesting people from all over the world. Since they stay for such a short period of time, they come and leave before you ever get annoyed by them! For an introvert like me, I can get annoyed by clingy people because I need my alone time, but typically backpackers know the drill and are low maintenance. 

So how did I find Durban, or “Durbs” as the locals call it? Upon arrival, I had no expectations as I normally do when I travel. All I had heard was that Durbs had a different “vibe” from Joburg and Cape Town, and that is exactly how I found it. To be honest, I found Durban to be a bit gritty, but I enjoyed it. Durban is where most South Africans flee to during the holidays, while I’d say Cape Town attracts more international travellers. However, I enjoyed Durban because it did in fact have more of a ‘local’ vibe. The beach was beautiful, the water was warm, and from the backpackers it was only about a 25 minute walk or less than 10 minute drive. Needless to say I walked, biked and ran the promenade or sunbathed on the sand almost every single day. By the time I left Durban I was absolutely burnt.

Outside of India, Durbs has the highest Indian population per square meter. Having been to India back in 2012, I’m quite familiar with the Indian culture and food. But there is one Indian dish worth noting that I've never tried until coming to SA, which uniquely originated in Durban - Bunny Chow. A few friends of mine introduced me to bunny chow in Johannesburg, friends which I now realize grew up in Durban, and it’s unlike any other Indian dish I've tried before. Basically bunny chow is an Indian mutton, veggie or chicken curry that is placed in a hollowed out piece of bread. It’s eaten with your hands, using the bread to pick up and soak in the curry. YUMM. While in Durban I ordered bunny chow twice, and the one from House of Curries on Florida Street was the best in my opinion.

Running errands: picking up bridesmaids dresses from
Marjorie, my go-to seamstress in Accra

Two days after Christmas I left the Durban hostel and took a morning flight back to OR Tambo airport in Johannesburg.  I found sand hiding in the nooks and crannies of my suitcase, which I was quite proud of because it was indicative of how much time I spent at the beach. From there I headed directly onto a 6 hour flight to Ghana. The last time I was in Ghana was during the summer of 2012, so I was excited beyond explainable feelings to be back after a year and a half. Of all the countries I've had the opportunity of travelling to, this trip to Ghana is the first time I would be returning to a country.

NYU kids reunion

I flew South African Airways from Johannesburg to Accra, and I will say I was pretty impressed with the airline. As soon as I landed in Ghana a sense of ease instantly rushed over me and I felt comfortable in an environment that felt oh-too-familiar. I walked off the plane with a smile on my face, feeling confident in knowing my surroundings and how to get around. Had Priscilla not been able to pick me up from the airport I probably would have been able to take a cab relying on my faint memory to guide me to her Grandmothers house, which I’ve been to all of once during the summer of 2012.

When my friends in South Africa ask me what Ghana is like (because to them Ghana is as foreign as it is to any of my American friends, despite being located on the same continent) I always refer to the vibrancy of the culture. From the bright colored Western African clothes to the catchy hip life music that spills onto the streets to the warmth of the people, what's not to enjoy about Ghanaian culture? As my seamstress Marjorie tells me, Westerners tend to always say they’re OK when they’re not, but Ghanaians always speak from the heart – and she’s absolutely correct. Perhaps this is the trait that I admire about them the most. Not only are they welcoming, but genuinely candid with no reservations. As an American who grew up in a culture of ‘saving face’ it’s refreshing to be surrounded by people who say what they mean, and mean what they say.

Back of the dress

The first few days in Ghana were spent running errands which Priscilla, which I didn't mind at all. Having travelled around the country and visited most of the touristy areas the last time I was there, it was relaxing to sit back and simply be on vacation as an adopted Addison child. I had no real agenda except for taking it easy, meeting new people who had flown in for the wedding, hanging out with a few old friends and lending a helping hand in preparation for the wedding when necessary. I woke up, hung out in the front garden, played Mancala or locally known as Oware with the neighbourhood cousins, and just… chilled out. I stayed with the Addison family in their newly completed house in East Legon, near the University of Ghana – and such a beautiful house it was. Prior to our arrival Priscilla had just finished furnishing the house, so it still had that ‘new house’ smell.

Bride's family on the right, Groom's on the left

So I should probably mention that the reason why I went back to Ghana was for a wedding, and before you ask – no, it wasn't my wedding. My friend Priscilla, with whom I graduated from NYU with, is from Ghana and the wedding was for her eldest sister Diane. Her family, who now lives in Geneva, is originally from Ghana and decided to have both a traditional and Western ‘white’ wedding as they call it, in their home country. I guess it also makes sense that the husband-to-be is also a Ghanaian. 

Janel and I taking selfies

There was a week of wedding activities set up, so I was pretty exhausted the majority of the time I was there, despite my intended plans of taking it easy. We got dressed up and spent New Years Eve at a bar/lounge called Bella Roma's in Osu, knowing we had to wake up in the morning for the traditional wedding the next day. New Years in Ghana is typically celebrated much differently than in the States. Most people attend a church service until midnight, and then proceed to hang out with friends if they wish. In fact, across from Priscilla’s house there was a New Testament Church, which converted an empty lot into an outdoor church service, equipped with a large screen TV and what must have been at least 500 chairs. From Priscilla’s house you could feel the bass bumping, see portable field lights illuminating the entire block and hear swarms of people beginning to file in for the 10pm service. We walked across the street a few times just be a part of the commotion and listen to the music while we were getting ready to go out to Osu.

Traditional Ashanti dancer

By the time the first wedding rolled around I was exhausted, but I guess there’s no better way to start off a brand new year by getting married. This is the second ‘traditional’ wedding I’ve attended, with the first being an Indian wedding in New Delhi, and has become such a great excuse to travel. Through weddings you get a deeper understanding of family traditions, values and the role a family unit plays in the makeup of a country’s social fabric. While I didn’t understand 95% of what was being said at the wedding because it was spoken in deep Ga, a tribal dialect, I grasped the main gist. The bride’s family sat on the right, and the grooms on the left, and prior to the bride and groom even arriving at the ceremony was an exchanging of gifts between the families. Ashanti drummers graced the floor as an Ashanti dancer performed throughout the audience.

Traditional Ashanti drummers

Kiddos in their traditional wear

Perhaps most enjoyable aspect of any traditional wedding is getting to dress the part! I’m a fan of Ghanaian weddings, although probably similar to other Western African cultures, because of the eccentric and colourful attire! I had my dress made for the occasion, and designed it as well. Marjorie, who we met as the NYU seamstress, made my dress in one day and charged me about $20 for the material and labor. Rather than designing a one-time-wear dress, I wanted a dress that I could also wear to work. Therefore I opted for a simple just-above-the-knee length dress that I could wear with a blazer. I got many compliments on the back of the dress, which is similar to another one-piece jumper Marjorie’s made for me in the past. Looking around, the colors are visually stimulating from not only the colors and patterns of the fabric, but the intricacy in which dresses were designed, cut and embellished. Even the bride and bridesmaids all wore the same fabric, but each dress boasted a different design, achieving a look that is modern and fun.

By the night after the “white” wedding on Jan 3rd I was absolutely exhausted, and I could only imagine how the actual bridal party felt. With back to back to back events for a week straight, it was nice to paint the town red and go out on my last night in Ghana. Priscilla and I found ourselves at Twist, which is a bar/club in the Labone area, also our old stomping grounds when we stayed at the NYU Accra campus. I was a tad sad to leave Ghana, but hopefully I’ll be back soon. Thanks again to the Addison family – I love you! Congrats Diane & Nii Koney!

The fabulous wedding party

Hold on, my next blog post is coming "just now"

Ignoring the rain at the SA vs Pakistan cricket game at Wanderers Stadium

It's taken much longer than expected to publish this post, probably because I've fallen into the trap of telling myself I'll get to it "just now".

3 Americans at the SA versus NZ rugby match

 In Joburg the phrase "just now" has absolutely no meaning. When speaking on the phone with someone who says they will be there to pick you up "just now" could mean they're around the corner or they've just left the house and will be there in an hour. Rather, "just now" is South African slang for sometime soon, which is only differentiated by its more urgent sister phrase, "now now". Understanding "just now" versus "now now" is only done so by experience, when once or twice you're promised something will be done "just now", only to check hours later and realizing your expectations have not been met. 

As I've mentioned before, my patience in South Africa is tested every day. I often times find myself frustrated with over-complicated processes, promises that are made but never kept, or hitting a brick wall when  you hear the oh-so-classic response that well, "this is just the way things are done in South Africa". Great - how do I work with that?! I've learned to plan ahead and budget for extra time with the expectation that more than likely, something will go awry. For me, it was a my temporary residence visa that took weeks longer than anticipated to be returned from the US Embassy. Without my passport I was quite limited, although I was at huge fault for not making a certified copy before it was handed off to USAID who handled my visa application. I'm lucky I was able to rent an apartment with a non-certified copy of my passport, but I was unable to open a local bank account or rent a car.

Bafana Bafana win over Spain - 1 to 0

Originally I had no intention of renting or purchasing a car during my time here in Joburg, but found it to be incredibly difficult. I realized quickly that this isn't New York and public transportation is limited. However, after many headaches and thanks to a reliable friend I've finally got my car sorted! I mean, don't ask me what type of used car I bought because you won't be impressed, but its a car nonetheless. Needless to say, life is much easier when you're mobile. If anyone knows me at all, they know my freedom and independence are important for my happiness, so compromising the two was starting to drive me slowly insane. Yes, purchasing a car isn't an expense I anticipated and yes, petrol is expensive (it costs about $80 to fill up my tank), but is it worth it? HELL YES.

For those who ask me on a regular basis, I'm settling into Joburg life absolutely fine, and my lack of time to blog is proof. In the last few weeks I've become well acquainted to the world of South African sports. I went to a Bafana Bafana South Africa versus Spain soccer game and then tried to get a better understanding of cricket as South Africa played against Pakistan - and South Africa won both games! However, even after watching a game of cricket at Wanderers stadium and multiple games on tv (my flatmate can watch cricket for days...), I have to admit that I still don't fully understand how to play the game...

Jumping on rocks & swimming kind of getaway at Drakensburg

About a month ago I spent the weekend away in Drakensburg, which is about a five hours drive outside of Joburg - and the scenery was absolutely stunning. It was my first weekend spent outside of the city and was a change of scenery definitely needed. The photo above was taken at a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Drakensburg. We spent the weekend hiking, jumping off rocks and swimming in freezing cold rivers. Although river swimming is quite different from the beaches I'm accustomed to, the water was refreshing beyond belief.

Hanging out with this cutie at the Lion Park

On another note, Thanksgiving recently came and left. On this annual day of commercialized self-reflection, I acknowledge the fact that I have more to be thankful for than these little fingers are able to type! I am simply thankful that I have the strength, support and open heart to experience every second of this wonderful adventure called life. I'm also thankful to the generosity, kindness and inclusiveness that surrounds me each day, always surprised and humbled by the openness I receive from people who have trouble pronouncing my name for the first time. 

This Thanksgiving I made a haupia chocolate pie. Yes, if I can't travel home for some traditional desert than I must recreate it here. Soon everyone will fall in love with haupia and then I'll have more of a reason to make the coconut pudding goodness on a regular basis. I vow to get my next post up more quickly. In fact, I'll get to it just now...

Ok fine, I'm coming just now.

Revisiting Broad-Based Black Economic Empowerment

Inducting a cohort of newly certified black-owned suppliers

Last summer the focus of my final paper for my Global Hunger and Food Security course was the impact of fair trade certification and Broad-Based Black Economic Empowerment legislation (B-BBEE) on the South African agricultural sector. Based on my research and experience visiting numerous fair trade certified producer organizations in the Western Cape I was highly critical of B-BBEE legislation, left with minimal evidence that its impact yielded socioeconomic improvements of the black population, particularly with regards to economic empowerment. 

Who would have known that a year later I'd be moving to South Africa to work for an Adviser of a nonprofit that uses B-BBEE compliance as a vehicle for economic development? While I'm still skeptical of B-BBEE policies, I obviously can't give up yet, as I'm dedicated to a yearlong position that that requires us to work within the government's B-BBEE policies in order to achieve success.

SASDC headquarters in Rivonia

The overarching goal of B-BBEEE is to undo the socioeconomic imbalances resulting from the Apartheid, but not solely on moral justifications. It is a South African economic growth strategy that identifies the only way the country's economic potential will be reached is by ensuring the black majority is incorporated into the economic mainstream. Think affirmative action, a policy many of us Californians remember during college applications, where ticking a minority race box was a not-so-silent preferential factor in preferred admission over the white competitor given all other qualifications equal. Every company in South Africa has a BEE scorecard, displaying a rating from 1-8 where the lower the number, the higher the company's BEE compliance. These scorecards are transparently displayed at the front of the business, similar to an "A", "B" or "C" Department of Health Safety rating in the window of any New York restaurant.

My daily route to work via the Gautrain bus

According to a recent survey, “three-quarters of South Africa’s medium-sized companies are not concerned or are neutral about their suppliers’ empowerment profiles” while “over a third do not feel empowerment is an issue when it comes to wining a business”. Why is this an issue? B-BBEE creates a ceiling. Companies will "comply" with these codes to obtain a certain rating, yet aren't passionate about what the second "E" in B-BBEE stands for - empowerment. The success of B-BBEE must ultimately be driven by the private sector, but there is obvious struggle to achieve momentum of corporate leadership. 

The private sector has yet to reach a point where black-owned SMME’s are regarded on the same skill playing field as other qualified SME’s. All it takes is for one large company to report a high failure rate with small businesses, particularly small black businesses to form a negative generalized perception against any black business seeking a chance.  This is typically what happens.

Another problem facing this country is an evident skills shortage. I've heard crazy stories about how some private sector construction companies for example, will import 5,000 welders from countries in Europe and South Asia for short-term projects because we have a shortage of welders in South Africa - 5,000! Coupled with a ridiculously high unemployment rate of 25 percent, it seems unbelievable that either the government or private sectors don't invest in technical skill building. You'd figure the private sector can drive economic growth through BEE compliance and reduce unemployment through the creation of jobs by provisioning technical vocational programs for township communities, for example. This way companies can meet their technical skill labor needs and contribute to broad based economic growth.

Dusty shoes on my first day of work

About a week ago the Department of Trade and Industry held the first National B-BBEE Summit, celebrating 10 years of empowerment after the codes were implemented in 2004. I was fortunate enough to attend the conference, feeling as if I was a participant in history in the making. Main outcomes of the conference? Overall, B-BBEE is a success and according to recent studies, empowerment is spreading - or whatever that means. It's no surprise empowerment is one of the main objectives of BEE, yet I believe it is one of the most difficult achievements to measure.  I'm interested to see their indicators for "empowerment"... as I obviously have my reservations. B-BBEE has potential to transform South African’s local social economy, but needs stricter government-led implementation regulations.

So how does this relate to the South African Supplier Diversity Council and my role in the organization?

For the past month I have been in Johannesburg as a selected fellow of the Emerging Markets Development Advisers Program (EMDAP). EMDAP is a USAID-funded program administered by the Institute of International Education, most popularly known for administering the Fullbright Program. This 12-month fellowship is probably the most exciting and ideal opportunity I've been granted thus far in terms of an opportunity for professional growth. In fact, I almost didn't apply to the EMDAP because I was intimidated by the application process and competitive nature of the program, but let’s just say I'm obviously glad I did.

Enhancing our visibility at conferences

I've been added to the team as a Communications and Business Strategy Adviser for the SASDC, a corporate-led nonprofit promoting and facilitating supplier diversity in South Africa, drawing its membership from and funded by corporations based or operating in the country. The SASDC is modelled after the US National Minority Supplier Development Council Inc (NMSDC), except integrates specifically marginalized black suppliers into corporate supply chains using targeted procurement and enterprise development. The hope is that the SASDC will give black-owned businesses greater opportunity and participation into their nation’s local economy, granting them with economic empowerment.

As an EMDAP Adviser I’ll be developing strategy to increase the SASDC’s corporate membership through brand awareness and targeted outreach. Founded in 2011 the SASDC is a relatively new and struggles with buy-in from potential new corporate members.

Greatest challenges so far? Definitely cultural. Coming here I was able to identify the "New Yorker" in my personality. Transitioning from a New York pace of life to the easy-going work culture in Johannesburg has been a tough transition. Correction, transitioning from the graduate student mentality that "it is acceptable to work until 3am" to normal 8-5pm work hours has been tough. Maybe the issue is that I'm a workaholic, or maybe I'm just passionate about my work. Either way, my brain isn't trained to shut down at 5pm. Someone once described New York as "transactional", and I think they were correct. I've been brainwashed to always staying alert and in networking mode. In short, it's been difficult to slow down - although I know this is good for me (and my Mommy would agree)!

Good Morning Jozi - Howzit?

Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton City Mall

I intended to have at least one post up by my one week Jozi anniversary, but I have been procrastinating – there is much to update on! Where to begin…

Perceptions. 

I can tell you what Johannesburg is not, much to warnings from friends and peers. Surprise surprise, but no lions and elephants do not roam free in Johannesburg, no everyone doesn't live in a hut and no I haven't been mugged yet. South Africa, which is a country, for that matter is not synonymous to Africa, which is a continent. Warning me to be careful of civil unrest in Northern Africa is like asking my family in San Francisco if they are safe because of riots that broke out in Northern Alaska.  

http://www.theatlanticwire.com/global/2013/08/confusing-country-continent-how-we-talk-about-africa/68870/

"Africa has an image problem. Or, put another way, the West has a perception problem."

While I agree with this statement 101 percent, I will also argue the problem of perception is a two-way street. Believe it or not, the American perception of Joburg is as equally skewed as how South Africans perceive America. Joburg is most reputable for its high levels of crime, yet if I were to ask a South African if they’d ever step foot in Harlem alone they respond with a face of horror and shake their head “Oh, NO”. Yes Harlemites, the neighborhood that has been home to me for the past two years is considered dangerous by international standards. So you see, the media’s ability to embed stereotypes and reinforce fears resulting in a reluctance to embrace a new community is a two-way street. At the end of the day, our perception problem hurts us because we miss an opportunity to view the world with a new lens. We miss an opportunity for personal growth or fulfilment of a void we never knew was there.

A field of Birds of Paradise on my way to work everyday

Rather, Johannesburg looks like this – with places like Sandton City, Africa's most prestigious shopping mall and honestly the most luxurious and extravagant collection of high-end stores I've ever walked through. I mean, there’s a Top Shop here, which to my knowledge there is only one store in all of the United States located in Soho, New York. I too kicked myself after bringing a year's worth of Body Shop facial products only to stumble across numerous stores with the same products at half the price! I too am guilty of assuming that South Africa couldn't possible have American stores that I've taken for granted.

However, compare establishments like Sandton City to township communities and you will begin to understand the cusp of inequalities everyone describes in South Africa. South Africa I was told, is a place of “haves and have nots”. With the middle class practically non-existent, it becomes easier to understand why Jozi is also laden with a stark reputation for high crime rates. In Jozi, you’re either fighting to keep what you have or fighting to obtain what you don’t have – hence the “haves and have nots”.

Balcony view in Sandton

A day after I touched down at OR Tambo International Airport, I consider myself lucky to have had the opportunity to visit the Alexandra township, or referred to as "Alex" by locals, for a Tedx conference. Considering how close in proximity Alex is to Sandton, its difficult to imagine how many worlds apart the two are with regards to standards of living. The two communities are only about 6 km apart, with Sandton dubbed "Africa's richest square mile" and Alex referred to as one of the poorest former black townships. 

As we drove into Alex, sights seen through the window were not unlike anything I haven't ever seen before – a dusty, densely populated community comprised of infinite rows of tiny shacks with tin roofs. While there is an evident sense of community it's not the ideal place for a stroll after sundown or even alone as a female for that matter. What struck me most were evident signs of wealth, despite the overall impoverishment of the township. On the street shining luxury cars dotted the main road - Mercedes, Lexus you name it. Necks were dressed in sparking ‘bling’ and flashy clothes. Again, it’s the irony of inequalities.

TEDxAlexandra brought together nonprofits and organizations with a proven track record of uplifting communities such as Alexandra through innovation, collaboration and partnerships. But for me the highlight of the event wasn’t a co-founder or CEO of successful organization, but an 18 year-old female African Leadership Academy student named Priscilla. As an avid young reader who immersed herself in American and European novels, she wanted to address the lack of African literature by creating writing her own series of children's books. Her project aims to banish stereotypes Africans adopt about other African countries at a young age by extracting and sharing positive narratives about the African continent. You can read about her project here because she can explain it more eloquently than I ever could.

Impromptu dancing during the braai following the Tedx event

Well two weeks have flown by and it feels as if I've been in Joburg for much longer. I'm still in the process of locking down an apartment for an October 1st move in date and will purchase a used car once my work visa comes back. Once I get those two sorted - my apartment and my car - I'll feel much more 'settled'. However, I'll update more about work etc. later... that could take a while!

And Thats a Wrap - The NYU Capstone Experience

Jules - Foundation Rwanda's Founder and Executive Director - best describes our productive adventure in her generous FB status post shortly after returning back to New York:

Dear NYU Capstone Foundation Rwanda Team: You interviewed 25 FR mothers, 12 FR students, 4 FR NGO partners & countless possible partners, you traveled to places in Rwanda most have yet to go, you barely slept, you never complained, you advocated for jobs, health, counseling, vocational training and higher education. Together we laughed and we cried. Sam, Sara and I will forever be grateful for this experience and for each one of you. With gratitude. Laura, Shalane, Alyson, Eras and Priscilla. See you all in NYC! x

Its unbelievable the Team has only been here for less than 2 weeks, because considering how much work we’ve accomplished it feels like we’ve been here for over a month. In 13 days (which by the way we worked through 13 days straight with no day off), between our team of five we probably conducted almost 50 interviews, partially due to unexpected interviews set up with potential partners we gained knowledge of while on the ground. 

Along the way we met some of the most inspiring women and were lucky enough to experience both modern and rural living - home-cooked local Rwanda meals from the villages of Kibuye to home-cooked meals in one of the most luxurious houses I never imagined I'd see in the business district of Kigali.

A friend of mine said when I returned from Rwanda she felt there was something different about me. She said she felt as if I glowing with new-found energy, and she's exactly right. There was a point in time that we were heading back to Kigali from our trip to Kibuye, riding in the back of a Toyota 4-wheel drive and bouncing around until we were carsick from the bumpy roads, and having a conversation about where we saw ourselves after graduation. Without a doubt the Capstone experience in Rwanda reaffirmed that working "in the field" is where I'm most alive and where I belong. I want place all my professional energy engaging with communities from cultures most different from me, not behind a desk with no human interaction. So thank you Capstone, but most importantly thank you Foundation Rwanda.

Local Rwandan Cuisine

Local food is yummy! Although they eat various types of red meats here, its quite easy to avoid them. If you're not the biggest red meat fan (like myself), you'll probably end up eating mostly starches, which are more than likely fried. Although everything is not as heavily fried or saturated in palm oil as Ghanian local food, the Rwandan diet is fairly starch-heavy. At a local restaurant you will find an array of starches - rice, crepes, cassava, sweet potatoes, chips (as in fried potatoes) and matooke (starchy bananas).

Now, don't get me wrong - I'm not a complainer, but one aspect of Rwanda for which I am greatly thankful is their coffee! Compared to the other two African countries I've visited - Ghana and South Africa - where Nescafe or instant coffee was staple, having freshly brewed coffee is pleasant. Even when studying abroad in Thailand in 2007 instant coffee was the norm, so its nice to wake up to real coffee for a traveling change. The fresh milk served alongside the coffee is always warmed, which I also appreciate! It makes total sense... why put cold milk into your steaming hot coffee? Of course you'd prefer warmed milk in your hot beverage!

Anyways, here's some photos of Rwanda's delicious local food-

The first local meal we ate in Kigali. It was SO yummy. Cassava, dirty rice, green beans, sweet potatoes, garbanzo beans and potatoes.

A Ugandan dish at the Bethanie Hotel in Kibuye near alongside Lake Kivu. Apparently its usually eaten as a hearty morning breakfast. I forget what it was called, it it was basically a stewed mix of veggies, chicken, beans, rice and pasta. Hearty indeed.

Driving around Rwanda banana trees are everywhere. Apparently, there are four types of bananas grown here: the small sweet ones (good for dessert), matooke (more starchy, less sweet and typically boiled, plantain (ideal for frying), and then the variety we are accustomed to eating in the US. Prior to arriving in Rwanda we heard that they make banana beer and were excited to try the local beverage. What we found instead was more of a banana wine, with an alcohol content of 14%. The one below was found at the local supermarket for 1500 RWF, or about USD $2.50. If you've ever tasted palm wine before, the banana wine tastes somewhat similar.

"Akarusho" or banana wine. Made of fermented banana juice and sorghum. It tasted similar to palm wine.

Humbled to enjoy a homemade meal in a village in the Rutsiro district near Kivu Lake.

A homemade Rwandan meal at the home of an FR mother. Peas and carrots,  boiled cassava, squash, matooke stew,  rice and pineapples.

It isn't uncommon for families to ferment bananas in their home and make their own banana wine! We visited two different FR mothers who make the local drink. One mother gave us a tour of her house and showed us the room where she ferments the bananas, while this mother in Kibuye served a generous pitcher for us guests with our meal. 

Especially in the rural villages of Kibuye where most families' livelihood and income rely on agriculture cultivation, bananas is one of the priority crops. Not only is it one of the main staples, but also serves as a food security crop with a year round harvest. During our interviews we were shocked to hear from one beneficiary about a dangerous and epidemic disease that a caused 100% of banana yield losses. After doing some research we learned the disease, banana xanthomonas was recognized as a national threat, spreading to Rwanda and other countries in Eastern Africa after emerging from Uganda. Apparently the Rwandan government is trying to solve the issue by replacing farmers' diseased banana trees with new banana trees.

Homemade banana wine in Kibuye.

While I am least adventurous with red meat, I never say no to fish. Jules treated us to talapias at her hotel. The meal reminded me of Duncan's in Accra, except there was no accompanying banku (I prefer rice anyways. 

Delicious talapia fish at the Chez Landau. SO fresh and yummy. It was accompanied with spinach, pees and carrots and rice. Definitely one of my favorite meals in Rwanda.

Our Capstone Team was blessed to be paired with such an amazing client. I am most humbled to have shared homemade meals with locals on several occasions. Foundation Rwanda has made a strong impression on the local community here in Rwanda, making friendships with kind and generous people. Learning and laughing from inspiring and successful business women like Joy of Gahaya Links over a glass of wine or watching Sam's wedding videos in his living room with his wife as if we were actually present on that memorable day, are some of the best memories I'll walk away with from this trip. 

Another homemade meal - Chicken, fish, rice and tomato sauce, peas,  potatoes, crepe and cucumber and onion salad.

Dirty rice, homemade peanut sauce, chapatti, potatoes, boiled sweet potatoes, beans  and homemade chili salsa.