Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Ode to Humanity


In my first blog entry, 'First Things First' I began my journey acknowledging the friends and family who supported me and wished me luck. It only feels right to finish similarly - with thank you's. In efforts to give you an idea of all the people I'm thankful for meeting in the last two-and-a-half months, here's the 'quick and dirty version' (as my Professor Gershman would say) of the lovely people I've had the pleasure of meeting:
  • Kingsley - a friend and life line who had my back the entire time in Ghana, always there when I needed him the most
  • Nabil and Ganeemos - entertaining Azonto kings and commanders on the dance floor
  • Major and Rhythm - a young rap duo aspiring to be the next big thing out of Ghana
  • Banky - the Nigerian who bought me breakfast
  • Porsha - the 10 year old vendor from whom I bought my morning egg sandwich from each day at the market outside my dorm at University of Ghana
  • T.S. - the Econ masters student who always stopped by my room to say hello
  • Gift - one of the many kind ladies who worked in the kitchen at U of G. She always complimented me on my eyeliner and asked me to show her how to do it
  • Aunty Peggy - One of the most eclectic people I've ever met at 7am. Worked at the reception at U of G and greeted me every morning, and noticed when I didn't come home the night before. She never forgot to remind me to 'Like' her daughter on Facebook who was running for Miss Teen Ghana 2012 and to tell all my friends. Her name is Udel and find her on FB here: Udel for Miss Teen Ghana - FB or vote for her here: Miss Teen Ghana 2012.
  • Davyd - met him on the bus from the Cape Town airport to Zebra Crossing. He invited me to meet his friends and I hung out with them on Long Street my first night in Cape Town.
  • Carlos, Michael, and Steven at Zebra Crossing. Steven gave me a Taro card reading and I spent many late nights up with the gang drinking coffee and making pasta
  • Erin - worked for Monkeybiz and shared our views on nonprofits
  • Kate, Louise, Courtney and the Dutch girls - Volunteers with African Impact. Explored Long Street with them and they taught me about laws surrounding townships and education in South Africa.
  • Stacy and Susan - the kind and hospitable staff at Zebra Crossing
  • Tyron - A high school Capetonian I met on the Metrorail coming back from Simon's Town. He has a twin brother named Myron and wants to go to college and study art.
  • Matt, Ashley, T.S. and the Ikhaya family - Nearly bent over backwards assisting me where they could. From saving me R180 by picking me up at Koopmanskloof winery to dropping me off at the train station at the end of my stay, they saved my life more than once.
  • Becky and Francis - two entertaining ladies from the Virgin Islands I met on a wine tour. They were 5 days into their year-long trip traveling the world.
  • Chantal - Graciously asked her friend to give me a lift to Koopmanskloof winery
  • Coen and Michael - Enjoyed nightlife around Stellenbosch
  • 2 German guys from Ikhaya (crap, forgot their names) - Dragged me out to Bohemia for a second time when they rainy weather had me down and I didn't feel like going out.
  • Rydel - probably the most knowledgeable people about fair trade wine in South Africa. Definitely felt honored for him to take the time to speak with me and share his wisdom.
  • Mario - Kindly toured me around Koopmanskloof and shared his vision and ideas for making the winery a better place for its workers.
  • Linda and Kevin - owners of Robertson Backpackers, which felt more like a home than a hostel. From home cooked meals to an 'honesty bar' to giving me an awesome rate on a single room when the dorms were full, they made this place feel like home when the weather was crap.
  • Eric and Michael - local Capetonians who shared their 'hubbly bubbly' and bought me a few Savannas
  • Gerrit, Lenka, and ALG Boerdery family - hosted me for two nights in their guesthouse on the Citrusdal farm. From driving 2 hours to collect me from Cape Town, arranging a 2-night guesthouse in town, giving me a tour of their lovely citrus estate, and finally arranging me a ride back from Citrusdal to Cape Town - their hospitality was more than I could have ever expected. 
  • Edwina, Nyasha, Mandi, Howard and the Green Elephant staff - seriously, the staff that never sleeps. With the reception running 24/7 I'm not sure how they manage to be so helpful, entertaining, and friendly each day.
  • Emily, Jenna, Marilyn, Marlon, 'Rasta guy' and the rest of the Green Elephant family - staying at the Green Elephant felt like home and was welcoming from day 1. I enjoyed my stay here so much that I left to Citrusdal for 2 nights and came right back to the 'Green Elle'.
  • Nee - the boxing matchmaker I met at the Namibia airport and invited me to meet some of Ghana's most well-known professional boxers.
  • Chen, Jill, Hannah, Jenny and the FTUSA family - provided professional guidance from San Francisco. They provided me with contacts in South Africa which laid out my itinerary. I knew they were never more than a Skype call or email away.

As you can see although for most of my trip I traveled 'alone' I wasn't really alone. I met so many amazing people during my trip and considering I wrote this all from memory, each person made an effect on me in some shape or form. Funny enough, as I step further outside of my comfort zone the more grounded I become. It's because I'm reminded of the human qualities that connect us all... no matter who you are, where you are, where you came from, or where you are going we are all the same, connected by the human spirit that runs through all of us.

One Love.


Monday, October 29, 2012

Adventures in Bukom - the (Boxing) Heart of Accra




Have you ever heard of Bukom? Nope, me neither until I met my friend Cephas at the airport in Nambia during my layover from Cape town to Accra. He's a boxing matchmaker in Accra and convinced me that you haven't been to Bukom, you haven't seen the heart of Accra. Although I may have never heard of the small area in Usher Town, ask any local and they'll tell you Bukom is well-known for breeding Ghana's best boxers, including those lucky enough to gain international recognition such as Joshua Clottey and Azumah Nelson. Considering I previously spent 6 weeks in Accra and had never heard of Bukom, I was game to see what its all about.


Bukom is a small community nestled in the  historic colonial districts of Jamestown and Ushertown in Accra. It's quite evident you've reached Bukom when you begin to see billboards advertising upcoming matches and faces of local boxers. There were several of Joshua Clottey including the one in the photo at the beginning of this post. The pride in Bukom's boxing legacy is undeniable, as my friend eagerly pointed out the house Joshua Clottey grew up in as we strolled through the community. Maybe more so because it was a national holiday (I don't remember what the holiday celebrated), but the streets were vibrant with kids playing football, people cooking, and just hanging out with friends and family as local Ghanaians tend to do best. I walked hesitantly into the middle of the commotion - definitely the only 'white lady' in sight. Always slightly guarded to whip out my camera and snap ignorant photos without approval, I just hung out and tried to blend in... if at all possible. However, Cephas encouraged me to 'snap a photo' of the kids playing football, and then wanted to take a photo of me. Whoops - I was instantly swarmed!
 Locals love 'white ladies'. Locals love cameras. hence this photo.

Scenes from around Bukom -  




Excited to tour me around his hometown, Cephas guided me through the Usher Fort slave castle. While I had already visited the Elmina slave castle in Cape Coast, the Usher Fort castle is apparently older. However, its unfortunate that the Usher Fort castle isn't well kept nor officially operated to give  official tours. Luckily I had a friend to show me around. While we still gave a 'donation' to someone monitoring the door, it would be nice to see Usher Fort operated as a tourist site, not only because it would be a great source of income and jobs for the local economy, but its important for Accra visitors to learn about the slave castle's history. 
Scenes from the Usher Town fort - 
Behind bars...

Eerie symmetry
I am so thankful for a genuine tour of the Jamestown/Usher Town area of old Accra. If there's one trait I pride myself on, its the fact to absorb without judgement. Rather than compare and/or judge the people I was lucky enough to meet, I thank them endlessly for opening me into their home, exposing me to their everyday life, and welcoming me into their family.

Bukom Banku, one of Ghana's well-known local boxers.

They made me. Hilarious, isn't it?

My friend Cephas and I. Thanks for showing me around your hometown!

One of the many boxing gyms located in Bukom. I forget the name of the gym, but it was located to the right of the Usher Town fort entrance. With no roof, it was a lovely outdoor space. I just sat and watched them train for a while.