Sunday, August 26, 2012

The Wonderful World of South African Wine

If I could choose my dream career, I'd travel the world learning about all the origins, varieties, and blends of wine in the world. Okay, so I guess in short I'd be a wine connoisseur, but one who travels and maintains close connections with the producers themselves to understand exactly how each glass was crafted, and how one origin differs from another. Think the cross between a wine connoisseur and anthropologist. Anyways, back to reality... Yes I've always been a fan of wine (I mean, who isn't?) but after traveling to South Africa and learning about the world of wine in their perspective, I can't get over how intrigued I am by the complexity of the wine industry. Not only are there several single varietals uniquely harvested in South Africa - muscadel, pinotage, voigener - but in a historical sense the wine industry in SA is crucial to studying and improving SA's historical land right and racial inequality issues.

Just for personal kicks, I attempted to photograph my favorite bottles of wine I met while in SA. Here's my photo recap. Some photos are recycled from previous blog posts, while others are new.

I was lucky enough to go on several private wine tours while in South Africa, in addition to a handful of organized wine tours. Some of my personal wine highlights:
  • At Citrusdal wines in particular, I was given a private tour by the head winemaker, Jacko, and had the opportunity to ask as many questions as possible. The wines we tasted were bottled right in front of my eyes, pulled straight from the steel holding tanks which is why the bottles below have no labels. 
  • Another highlight was at Springfield in Robertson. I don't have photos for this place but wine tasting here felt like a science experiment. We tasted one grape varietal, merlot I believe, but was processed using two different storing methods. One was stored in your traditional oak barrel while the other was stored in a steel tank, with the later considered to be more modern and appreciated among American palates. Needless to say the difference between the two was boldly evident, with the traditional method carrying a lingering bold oak body.
  • There were several single wine varieties in South Africa that I had never tasted nor heard of before. Viognier, which falls somewhere in between a Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc was one of my favorites. I bought this actual bottle from Kransklop, a winery we visited in Robertson.


Other notable favorites:

I didn't try this exact bottle, but I noticed a popular trend of fusing pinotage with coffee and/or mocha. There was another one that was sold at most large retailers called 'Cappupino Ccinotage', or a Capuccino Pinotage... get it? Anyways, I wanted to try that one as well but didn't get a chance to. Most of them have a coffee or mocha scent, although it may not necessarily carry a coffee or mocha taste.


The Cape Jazz Shiraz, a sparkling shiraz was AMAZING. I was lucky enough to find it at the Cape Town airport and yes you guessed it, purchased it. 

Gifts are always an immediate favorite.


Couldn't resist the temptation of purchasing this unique blend. Muscadel + Pinotage - two varietals native to South Africa.

 My South African souvenirs of choice: 

Steller Organics FT Certified shiraz

Van Loveren's FT certified Pinotage

Who knows - maybe I'll get into the wine business, or become a professional wine taster. 

Saturday, August 25, 2012

Citrusdal Wines - 'Home of Six Hats Fairtrade'


I was particularly excited for my visit to Citrusdal Winery. They are the producer of Six Hats wine, a brand I can say that I've had the pleasure of drinking many times in New York. Whenever IPSA serves wine at its organized events, we do our best to support Fairtrade wine if our budget permits. Quite often our Fairtrade wine of choice is Six Hats, so it was a great pleasure to meet the wine grape producers and see the winemaking facilities. It was an honor to have Jaco, the head winemaker at Citrusdal Wines, collect me from my B&B and drive me to Bergendal Boerdery, the FT certified farm from where he gets his wine grapes from.

Marc, JB Chairperson,  in front of the community projector funded 
with FT premium. Marc was particularly proud of this project because he
played a huge role 
We visited Bergendal Boerdery, the wine grape producer for Citrusdal Wines. I was a bit confused at first, but Bergendal Bordery is one of 3 FT certified producers farms from where Citrusdal Wines sources its grapes from. Citrusdal Wines has a contract with Bergendal Boerdery and pays them a FT premium of $0.05/kilo of grapes purchased. In addition to wine grapes Bergendal Boerdery also produces FT certified citrus and rooibos tea. 

I got to speak with Marc, who is the Bergendal Boerdery's JB Chairperson. One aspect I respected about Bergendal's JB was that hold elections every 2 years. By doing so they maximize the number of workers who gain leadership experience in a JB position. Marc has been the JB Chairperson for about 9 months. He spoke about the most recent premium funded project - a projector installed in their community center. Marc takes particular pride in the completion of this project because he was the person who initially suggested the idea at an annual meeting and was pleased to know that everyone in the community agreed. Not only did he also take the lead on pricing and ordering logistics, but even helped with the final installation. The projector is used by seasonal workers on the weekend, children after school, celebratory community events, and training sessions.

Interestingly enough, Citrusdal Winery is the only winemaking company located in Citrusdal, while most others are located in the Stellenbosch/Robertson area that I visited earlier in the trip. I asked Jaco what advantage the location of Citrusdal has in winemaking, over its more popular competitors Stellenbosch and Robertson. Apparently wine grapes are best when picked in cool weather. Bergendal Boerdery is located on a mountaintop in Citrusdal where the weather is much cooler. While wineries in Stellenbosch benefit from better soil, grapes must be picked around 3 or 4am when the weather is cool. For this reason many wineries are reverting to machinery for picking wine grapes since its difficult to find employees who will work in the middle of the night. However in Citrusdal the weather is much cooler on average so employees don't have to wake up so early to pick grapes, and also get a higher quality from relying on hand-picked product.

After our visit to Bergendal Boerdery, Jaco led me through the winemaking facilities. When asked what the greatest challenge was in producing wine for the Fairtrade market, his response was being audited so many times per year. Since Jaco sources grapes about 10 farms, of which 3 are FT certified, auditors are interested in traceability - making sure that FT wine grapes don't mix with the non-FT wine grapes. Below the tank is clearly labeled FLO WYN - obviously 'Fairtrade certified wine'.


We tasted wine straight from the steel tanks so there weren't even labels on the bottle yet. He said he was prepping some shipments for a client in the US anyway, so I decided to jump in. I tasted wine alongside Jaco and his official wine taster. Pretty neat. Typically a red wine drinker, I have become a fan of the whites. Among the three reds (pinotage, cabernet sauvignon, shiraz) and 3 whites sampled (chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and chenin blanc), my favorite was the sauvignon blanc.

You can find out more about Citrusdal Wines by visiting them at their website: http://www.citrusdalwines.co.za/

Friday, August 24, 2012

Citrusdal Hospitality - ALG Boerdery

I apologize in advance for a lengthy post. Here we go...


Citrusdal - South Africa's citrus haven
Since I've arrived in South Africa, there have been several moments where I had to check myself, stop, and think -
'Where am I, and what the hell am I doing here?'
The two days I spent in Citrusdal easily finds itself at the top of my list of unreal life experiences.







Morning breakfast at Aan d'Oewer
I traveled from Cape Town to Citrusdal, the heart of South Africa's citrus industry. Located about a 2 hours drive north from Cape Town, most local Capetonians have never heard of this tiny, lush, green, mountainside, agricultural, rural town. Continue about an hour further north and you'll hit Clanswilliam, where a majority of rooibos tea estates are located. My mission in the Citrusdal area included site visits to ALG Boerdery, Mouton Citrus, Citrusdal Wines, Bergendal Boerdery and rooibos tea producers Heiveld and Wuppertal. Of the five I had confirmed visits with ALG Boerdery, Bergendal Boerdery, and Citrusdal Wines.

Views from my room at Aan d'Oewer



Let me just say that I was impressed and humbled by ALG Boerdery's hospitality. Not only did they send someone to drive 2 hours and collect me from my Cape Town hostel at 10am, they arranged 2 nights in a beautiful bed and breakfast in town, organized an entire 2-day agenda including a site tour and opportunities to speak with workers and gather whatever impact information I needed, and lastly organized a lift for me back to Cape Town. Seriously, their generosity was beyond expected but of course I am forever thankful.


Accommodations at Aan d'Oewer (which translates to On/Next to the Water in Afrikaans) B&B You can read my review here: TripAdvisor Review or visit their website here: http://www.aandeoever.com/.

Had it not rained, ALG would have organized on-site accommodations in their very cute treehouse bungalows. But as you can see, the living room area opens to gorgeous view overlooking a river and endless citrus trees, but it would not been a fun place to stay in the rainstorm. (And if anyone remembers the game Myst, walking from tree house to tree house reminded me of one level from the computer game. If you didn't play Myst as a child please ignore this sentence...)


Riverside Base Camp which can be rented for camping
ALG Boerdery is family-owned estate currently run by Gerrit and his son, Gerrit jr. Their estate is quite expansive, encompassing 5 farms, a packhouse, a small juicing facility, a growing game reserve, a guesthouse, 5 chalets, a base camp, 3 creches, and not mention about 400,000 citrus trees. They produce red ruby grapefruits, limes, lemons, and more varieties of oranges than I've ever heard of.

ALG Boerdery has approximately 400,000 trees

From ALG I learned quite a lot about the Joint Body and exactly how premium funds are allocated. I was lucky enough to be able to speak with Tekkie - JB Chairperson, Lenka – FT Officer and CEO liaison, and Heidi - previous secretary.

Perhaps I should take a step back and explain what the Joint Body is, who its comprised of, and what they do. Spending so much time in the Fairtrade world I forget that other people probably have no idea what I'm talking about. The Joint Body decides how the premium money is spent. The ALG Joint Body, for example has 9 JB members - 5 men and 4 female. Each of the five farms has a JB representative in addition to a JB representative specifically for seasonal workers. Other roles in the JB include positions similar to any democratic organization - a Chairperson, FT liaison with the CEO, Secretary, Treasurer, etc. The JB meets every other month and is responsible for holding an annual General Meeting with all workers, both seasonal and permanent. During the AGM all workers submit suggestions and prioritize what projects should be financed that year.

Some of their greatest challenges with fair trade? Training workers on fair trade standards. When workers lack basic reading and writing skills, getting each and every worker on board with the technicalities of fair trade standards is difficult. Even for myself, Fairtrade standards are complicated, not to mention complying with standards from multiple certifications.Further, in a country such as South Africa where there are multiple official languages, communication across language barriers pose another challenging element to the training situation. At ALG the majority of permanent workers speak Afrikaans, while most seasonal workers speak Xhosa. When speaking across languages, some intermediary level of English is usually preferred.

My suggestion? FLO translated training materials that can help facilitate the communication between management and workers. If FLO or any other certification body wants to enforce standards, they should help alleviate the burden on organizations where multiple languages are spoken. Oftentimes I hear the criticism that FLO-cert auditors are picky, and standards have become increasingly demanding over the years. Auditors come to a site, point out whats wrong, leaving the farm responsible for investing the costs to meet FT standards. In short, meeting FT standards are expensive and costly, contributing to many organization's hesitation to become FT certified in the first place and leaving many to wonder is it worth it?

Views from inside the packhouse. Oranges, conveyor belts, boxes, and workers galore.

The nifty box mechanism flies boxes all throughout the packhouse.

Naartjties - most popular variety among locals because its
easy to peel. However it isn't considered the highest quality
because it has plenty of seeds and is on the tart, sour side.

Another noteworthy comment was the need to distinguish between what FLO wants to hear versus what is practical for the workers. Sure, certain Fairtrade premium projects would be great for FLO to report, projects which can be exemplified as having ideal impact within a community, but these projects may not necessarily be a localized solution in the respective local context. For example, FLO may suggest the need to construct and install portable toilets with Fairtrade premium, however whats the point of spending money on such toilets when farm workers prefer to use nature as its toilet? Sure, portable toilets would be great for FLO marketing, but projects that are favorable among key stakeholders may not be what beneficiaries of the fair trade premium need. Instead, most farm workers prefer to invest their fair trade premium on every day necessities – their children's education via school and hostel fees, holiday food baskets, solar panels for hot water and electricity. Part of the Joint Body's responsibility is to decide on projects that will benefit as many people in the community as possible, not to please FLO or auditors. 


Venturing on catwalks looking down at machinery
extracting the citrus into 3 parts: skin, juice, oil
And good news for Whole Food fans - you'll be happy to know that ALG's highest quality FT certified products are shipped to Whole Foods. Other US distributers that receive ALG citrus products include Costco and Sams Club.

 So now, the fun part. I got to drive around the estate, see various projects funded by the fair trade premium, snap some photos and speak with the workers about fair trade impact, BEE, and questions in general. 



Changing rooms on the side of the recreational football field were funded by fair trade premium.


Such a cute photo with the little boy's head in the window. The Swartvlei creche and everything inside was funded by fair trade premium.

Swartvlei teachers and children.

They sang me a song in English that recites all the days of the week and then wanted to show me their work.

One of four bus stops located throughout the very large estate. The bus stops were funded with fair trade premium money. They provide shelter for children as they wait for the bus to collect them and take them to school. They are especially useful during the rainy season.

Anyways, in real time updates, in case you were wondering (but I'm guessing you weren't) - I'm back in Ghana and am sadly leaving back for New York this coming Tuesday. However, with a huge backlog of photos and blog rants to make before I put this project to an end, I will continue to post until I've captured everything I wanted to say. It's sunny in Accra today, so I'll probably head to Labadi beach. I have lots of interview notes to clean up, follow ups with the generous people I met in Cape Town, resumes to submit, a fall class schedule to solidify, and IPSA events to plan within the next few days. But, might as well do it while on a beach. 


Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Coastal Cape Town

Oh, the Green Elephant in OBZ, or Green 'Ellie' as some people call it. Probably my favorite backpackers joint I had the pleasure of staying while on my hostel hoppin' journey. I can rave about the Green Ellie, or you can just read by TripAdvisor review here: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g312659-d630014-Reviews-Green_Elephant-Cape_Town_Central_Western_Cape.html. In short, great mix of locals, undergrad/masters/doctoral students, NGO volunteers, other travelers from all over the world, and staff that is just as friendly and social as they are professional. 

Remy, the Green Elephant owner's son, offered to drive several of us Cape Town newbies around the city. Although the weather wasn't ideal when do I ever say no to being next to the water? Plus, I've always heard that the best way to take in the Cape's coastline is via car and with the opportunity to do so only a few days before I leave Cape Town, this was a perfect chance! This morning I was actually getting dressed to go out for a morning jog when Edwina, one of the front desk reception workers insisted I come along. Although I've been terribly slacking on routined exercise.... hmm, morning jog or driving around the Cape coast...? 

We stopped for a lunch of fish and chips at Mariners Wharf in Hout Bay.

Views of Hout Bay as the sun decided to join us.

Emily and Edwina (accompanied by her ice cream).

Since I hate taking photos of myself, photo credit goes to Emily but I love this candid photo.


Seals in Hout Bay got me a little San Francisco reminiscent.

Here is one of the many lookout points while driving along the Cape coastline. With miles of green textured mountains, jagged coastlines, and diverse blue ocean colors, I could sit up here all day.

Oh hey, thats me. By the way, this purple pareo from Thaiti has been a lifesaver in Cape Town's freezing weather! Considering the limited space in my backpack and the fact that I have TONS of scarves in New York, I refused to purchase another. Plus, the less clothes in my backpack the more room I had for wine... you know - the more important things in life.

Edwina, Remy, Emily, Marilyn, and I at some lookout point of which I forget the name.

AH, breathtaking.

On a not-so-important-yet-worth-mentioning note, my blog hit over 1100 views! Woo-hoo!

On yet ANOTHER note - shoutout to IPSA (International Public Service Association) @ NYU Wagner's website which follows this blog and several of my other colleagues who spent the summer abroad. You can check out IPSA and other amazing blogs here: http://wagneripsa.wordpress.com/

Wednesday, August 15, 2012

Saturday Morning at the Neighbour Goods Market

Word on the street is that the Neighbour Goods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill is THE BEST way to spend a Saturday morning in Cape Town. I've heard lots of hype about this place, so I decided to check it out for myself.

The Old Biscuit Mill is actually a shopping center on its own with boutique shops and restaurants, but on Saturday mornings this place transforms into another animal. The market area was inside a warehouse with two rooms. Portions of the back room had no roof, so when it wasn't raining (as it was on this Saturday) I'd imagine it would be an nice place to hang out.

The table decor was cute - candles burning inside a wine bottle.

Everything at the market was local of course. The best part? Samples! 

omg yum.

yum.

Funki Fungi serving mushroom kebobs. I love clever marketing.

Pesto Princess - six different types of pesto

French Goose and Duck Fat. (no I didn't try it).


The largest seafood paella E.V.E.R

So what did I choose to eat? Poached egg and salmon with hollandaise sauce on top of potatoes.