Monday, August 6, 2012

Stellenbosch - South Africa's Wine Capital

Stellenbosch is situated about 50km east of Cape Town. In addition to the 400+ wineries based on Stellenbosch it is also the home of Stellenbosch University, one of South Africa's leading Universities. This dangerous combination of a University located in the same area as a bunch of wineries equals a vibrant college community well-equipped with a plethora of restaurants, pubs, shops and YES you guessed it - drunk college kids. Needless to say the hostel was packed with University of Cape Town visitors Friday and Saturday, and then transformed to a ghost town Sunday and Monday. 

Ihyaka Backpackers was conveniently located in the Stellenbosch town center, so I spent many hours window shopping at all the small boutique-like stores. I'm 99% positive these hanging clothes served more of an aesthetic than practical purpose, but they did make for a nice photo op.


I arrived at Ikhaya Backpackers on a Wednesday, with a scheduled meeting with Koopmanskloof winery on Friday. With one day free in-between I signed up for a full-day wine tasting tour of course! For $50 I splurged on an all-inclusive 3 winery tour with lunch included. Our first stop was Muratie. 

Muratie was founded on a love story. Story goes, a German soldier in service of the Dutch East Indian Companyfell in love with a black slave in Cape Town.  They obviously had to keep their illicit love affair a secret, so once a month he trekked for three days from Stellenbosch to Cape Town to visit her, and then walked back. After some time he asked the black slave girl to move onto the farm with him. She became one of the richest slaves who ever lived. The love story still runs deep in Muratie's wine products. Ansela van de Caab, one of their best-selling wines,  is named after the slave girl.


Solms Delta is a winery with an impressive story. They pride themselves in empowering and giving back profits to their workers. In 2010 the owner of Solms Delta started a trust fund for its 150 workers. One-third of profits from their port wine is put into the trust fund which is then used towards college scholarships for the workers' children. I was talking to Eugene, a newly hired worker at Solms Delta about how he finds working on this farm. He said compared to other wineries, Solms Delta has a positive vibe, and its evident all the workers are happy to be there.

Berries start showing around Jan and are picked during March.

Fish & Chips (and a glass of white)

Our wine connoisseur Steven says the Solms Delta's trust fund has allowed his son to attend Stellenbosch University. While the trust fund is meant to benefit and empower the workers, he said something that is important to remember: "The point is not to get rich, but to get out of poverty. Not everyone can be rich." By the way, they have a Cape Jazz Shiraz which is a sparkling shiraz that is SO good. It's dry, not too sweet, and bubbly of course! 

Becky and Francis, two girls I met who also stayed at Ikhaya's Backpacker hostel. They're from the Channel Islands and spending the next year backpacking around the world. Must be nice!

Fermentation tanks at Tokara.

Tokara's brandy, although they are most well-known for their award-winning Chenin Blanc.

Me, Chantal, Coen, and Michael at Bohemia - one of the many bars in Stellenbosch.

Just for kicks, here's some fun facts about Stellenbosch and its wine industry:
  • South Africa's wine industry is only reaching its peak. For the first time, in 2011 South Africa exported more wine to Europe than France.
  • Oak trees in South Africa grow too quickly due to the weather causing native South African oak to be too porous to be used as wine barrels. The wine seeps right through. As a result all wine barrels used in South Africa are either imported from Europe or the United States.
  • Speaking of wine barrels- one barrel is considered 'good' for storing wine up to four years. After four years it no longer contributes high-quality oak flavor to wine, and then is used for port and sherry wine for four years. Lastly, it is then used for whisky for another four years.
  • In Stellenbosch alone it is estimated that R4,000,000 is spent on alcohol annually.




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