Friday, July 20, 2012

Tamale - All You Need is Love

This is another post in the 'catch-up' series from our 9-day tour around the country. At the end of June (wow, over 2 weeks ago already!) we spent three nights in Tamale, the Northern region of Ghana and even visited Bolgatanga in the Upper East region directly south of the Burkina Faso border (refer to map a few entries below).

Upon arriving in Tamale its unmistakable how different this Northern region is from Ghana's capital, Accra. If you think the Accra lifestyle is slow-paced, Tamale is ten times slower. Ghana's Northern region is majority Muslim, although the percentage of Muslims in Ghana as a whole is only 18%. From appearance alone, the style of dress is more conservative, with women showing almost no signs of bare skin. While I don't consider myself a religious person, the coexistence of Christians and Muslims in Ghana is quite fascinating and would be an interesting subject to explore further.

Some of the beautiful foliage around TICCS (Tamale Institute for Cross-Cultural Studies).

Natural perfection. Kuddos Mother Nature.

The Presbyterian Farmers' Training Programme (PFTP) gave us a tour of several of their facilities. We visited a rainwater collection tank which was quite impressive. As you can see from the photo rain flows from the gutter on the top of the building into the tank which gives community access to fresh water through the spout at any given time. The fresh water can be used for drinking, cooking, etc.

Next our representative from PFTP took us to speak with some of the farmers who receive training and support from the Programme. We spoke with maize farmers about the challenges they face growing crops, especially during the lean season. As I mentioned a few posts ago when I was in Tamale, I found it fascinating that farmers must literally minimize their food intake during the lean season because there just isn't enough food to eat. During harvest season families consume three meals per day, whereas they limit themselves to only one meal during the lean season - having only one meal around 4pm. Although most American's can't fathom surviving on one meal per day, the farmers also note that one meal suffices because they don't need much energy throughout the day since there aren't any crops to harvest. 

After reading endless research on agriculture in Ghana, speaking with market vendors about where their crops are sourced, and listening to lectures on agriculture development, it was refreshing to finally see where crops are grown. Through our journey from Accra upwards through Kumasi and on to Tamale, we can say we literally traced certain commodities backwards straight to their source. Getting the opportunity to speak directly with farmers responsible for harvesting agriculture in Ghana was the perfect finale to our commodity chain project. 




Rice stalks made possible by the Tono Irrigation Project, one of the largest dams and irrigation systems in Ghana.

Sifting rice is a family affair. 

A photo of the dam project that makes agriculture in this part of Tamale possible.

The iconic African baobab tree provides shade to farmers, families, and children alike.

Our bus driver Redeemer lets us sample the inside of the baobab fruit. The fruit is about the size of a small coconut but had an inside I'd never seen before. Inside the shell you find a powdery-velvety-styrofoam texture with an acidic, tart flavor which dissolved in your mouth... not bad actually!

Ashby's camera picked up an unexpected visitor.

Dr. Abdulai is easily one of the most influential people I've had the honor of meeting. Dr. Abdulai is a true hero of the Tamale community and potentially nationwide. Growing Dr. Abdulai was one of many children in a poor household, struggling through poverty and homelessness at one point of his life. He told himself that if he ever survives, he would devote his life to serving the poor - and devote his life he has! 

Today Dr. Abdulai runs a nonprofit clinic in Tamale, called Shekinah, and operates a 'Meals on Wheels' program. Both programs are aimed to benefit primarily the poor and destitute - free of charge. Dr. Abdulai reaches out to the mentally ill in Tamale because social stigma of their condition results in a lack of available services and being shunned from society. In the Ghana society, some believe the mentally ill is be cursed by God leaving people to fear them as an animal. Yet, Dr. Abdulai heals clients without the use of daily dosages of drugs. 
"Only love," he says.
'Doc' led us around his medical site, greeting in-house patients along the way. The experience was sobering – saying hello to the mentally ill, lepers, and other various patients with physically disabling conditions who find solace living under Dr. Abdulai's heartfelt wing. To watch Dr. Abdulai's interaction with people who have been shunned from society is powerful. You can't help but get emotional to see the reciprocated happiness and and appreciation between Dr. Abdulai and his patients. Quick! Someone make a documentary about this insipirational human being, ASAP!

Leaving his presence you feel like your soul has been touched, heart uplifted, and pain subsided. He shared endless stories of patients in Tamale who searched for Dr. Abdulai in hopes of being cured, and was brought to tears by this man's passion and optimism for love and life. He a is a living testament that love truly does, make the world go 'round

Students of NYU Wagner presenting Dr. Abdulai with donations. I mean, c'mon. Look at that smile!



As a side note, I have one more 'catch-up' post to write and then I'm done! Lately I've been working on my Cape Town itinerary but more updates on that to follow...

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